Italy, Here we come!

Italy, Here we Come!

A short story as experienced by Kerry & Yvonne Wilbraham . A genuine and authentic true story as experienced by Kerry & Yvonne Wilbraham during their residency in Florence and Tuscany, Italy during the early 1980's. Written by Yvonne M. Wilbraham

Preface

In the spring of 1980 until the fall of 1985 my husband (Kerry) and I lived in Florence, Italy and the story that Yvonne is about to tell is entertaining, enjoyable, and on occasion humorous. Personally, observing and encountering different “savoir-faire” has given us more knowledge and understanding of the Italian culture and diversity; which we absolutely fell in love with. Most of the knowledge and observing acquired as well as the day-to-day insights, with the Italians, was based on Yvonne’s adventures and undertaking as Kerry was working as a Tour Manager. He escorted tours throughout Europe and traveled continuously. Someone has to work so Yvonne can frolic “under the Tuscan sun”! Follow Kerry and Yvonne’s escapades during the early 1980’s in charming and captivating city of Florence and Tuscany region. There will be period of absolute hilarity, periods of tranquility, serenity and peacefulness as well as awe-inspiring and body-tingling moments. Engage yourself in the vibrant local markets and delve into the nuances of the Italian scenery, history and cuisine. Each scene yields ineffable surprises. Unravel how Yvonne tries to speak the Italian language, as a native, and manages to “get lost in translation”! The first time Yvonne rode a scooter she manages to get into a dilemma and experienced physical pain and difficulties of getting home safely. Uncover and bring to light what it’s like to purchase a home in Tuscany. Sense the frustration and aggravation Yvonne had to face to obtain a “work permit” when dealing with red tape and bureaucracy.

Feel the pain when the decision was made to end our dream, living in Tuscany, comes to an end. A must-read for people who are interested in what life was like in Italy, as experienced by two well-traveled individuals during the early 1980’s. At the end of the narrative an extra added feature will be given. An overview (brief description of places Yvonne visited during her 40 years working in the travel industry.)

An offer of a lifetime

One spring day in April of 1980 my then-boyfriend Kerry came to my office, in Los Angeles, and asked me if I would like to live in Europe? I replied, Europe? I asked him why did you ask me? He said I have been transferred there. I said o.k. where in Europe? I thought about it and then repeated what he said …Europe! Are you serious? I then asked him again where in Europe? He said that I could choose from a variety of different cities. I can choose, Wow… that is going to be a difficult decision. The cities he mentioned where: Frankfurt, Paris, Lisbon, Rome, Madrid, or Florence. I thought about it for a while and a “lightbulb” all of a sudden lid up. The city of Florence, Italy was continually and constantly visualized in the back of my mind. I thought of famous artists such as Botticelli, Michelangelo, and Leonardo Da Vinci and most importantly “food”: bruschetta, spaghetti, pizza, minestrone, Gelato, mushroom risotto, and fettuccine alfredo! I thought to myself what an array of authentic Italian food I would be able to indulge in and "food" was and still is my favorite subject! So, I said "Yes"! Let's do it. Let’s move to Florence. I did not think about what my parents would think about this move since Kerry and I were not yet married; however, we were already living in sin for over 5 years!

I met Kerry while waiting for a flight to take off for Hawaii and continuing to Australia. Kerry was a Tour Manager at that time and worked for a Tour Operator based in Paris and was constantly traveling – literally living out of a suitcase. He had been a Tour Manager for over 15 years and has traveled extensively. His company asked him to escort tours in Europe and he accepted. He wanted me to come along with him. This was an opportunity of a lifetime and I could not say No!

My parents were very worried that their 27- year old single daughter was going to live in Europe with a man who was just a “boyfriend”. During the ’80s this was not kosher as my parents came from “old school” and they believed that I should be married first before I ran off with a man (especially to a foreign country). I assured them that everything will be fine and that Kerry and I loved each other very much and he will take good care of me. This fabulous opportunity does not come along every day.

I had already worked in the travel industry for over 12 years and have had the opportunity to also travel. I was not inexperienced when it came to traveling; however, I knew that visiting and living in a different country is not the same and that I could face barriers that would be difficult to grapple with, since I did not speak the Italian language fluently; however, I was determined to make this work.

Departure from Los Angeles to Florence

Kerry made arrangements for accommodations with his friend Michael, who lived in Florence and was also a Tour Manager and was employed with the same company Kerry worked for. After all the arrangements were made, we boarded a jet in Los Angeles and flew to Paris and from there we took a train to Florence. We brought along with us about ten suitcases! I shipped three large suitcases to my uncle, who lived in Rotterdam, The Netherlands. I told my uncle that Kerry will pick up the three suitcases later on when his tour passes through Holland.

When we arrived in Paris, we took a train from Paris to Florence (an overnight train). Because we had so much luggage our baggage could not be booked on the same train. It would be forwarded on another train and would arrive in Florence a couple of days later. We were amazed that all pieces of luggage arrived safely. Before boarding the train, I purchased some cosmetic items and a bottle of my favorite perfume “O’ de Lancome”. When the train took off, I realized that I had left the bottle of perfume at the rail station in Paris! After I paid close to $60.00 for it! In the ’80s that was considered quite expensive. I was fuming and hoped that I would be able to purchase the same perfume in Florence. It was my first experience traveling on an overnight train. I was looking forward to a most pleasant journey.

I had a compartment that I shared with five other passengers and Kerry had a more luxurious cabin sharing with one other person (even had a bathroom). What is wrong with this picture? I was hoping to make new friends and practice my Italian. Since it was such a long train ride (approximately 24 hours) I wanted to enjoy the ride and to be able to view the wonderful scenery along the way. The train we booked must have been a "milk-run" train as it stopped in so many places. I should have claimed my bunk at the time I boarded the train, but Kerry and I wandered around and when it was time to sleep I discovered that my bed was at the very top bunk where all kinds of suitcases were placed by my roommates, leaving me with about half of a bunk to sleep on! I entered my compartment around midnight. It was dark and I tried not to make any noise while climbing the invisible steps, to reach my bunk and I managed to step on someone’s face! Since the person was in deep sleep and snoring like a pig, I don’t think he was aware of the fact that I pranced on his face. Needless to say, I had a sleepless night!

The next morning everyone removed their food from their carry-on bag and started to eat. One of the passengers ate sardines with garlic and the strong-smelling odor moved around the compartment. One individual managed to burp several times and a few “farts” were let out. I felt like I was in a “cave” sharing food with other cave dwellers! I could not stay there, so I left. You are probably wondering why Kerry and I were not able to share a compartment. The train was sold out and we had no other choice but to accept what was available, therefore, we had no choice but to accept the accommodations offered.

Arrival in Florence

When we arrived in Florence Michael, and his friend Mario, met us at the train station. The name of the train station in Florence is called (SMN) “Santa Maria Novella” and was a very busy station. Michael is of Swedish nationality and spoke fluent English along with other languages. Tall, good looking and a very funny personality – I loved Michael! He was honest, candid and forthright – right to the point. He had a reflective way of expressing the deep, meaningful and important things that we all experience in life. He managed to always make me laugh. Mario was Italian and has lived in Florence all his life, a very gentle and kind person, also a great cook! Since I had a voracious appetite, I am going to partake in many cooking adventures with Mario, only to indulge in all his wonderful and scrumptious Italian food creations.

Our apartment was not ready yet so we stayed in a “Pensioni” for a few days until our apartment was ready. I believe the word “Pensioni” has now been replaced by B & B. (Bed and Breakfast.) The “Pensioni” did not have a bathroom so if we wanted to take a shower, brush our teeth, or whatever it is you do in a bathroom we would have to use the “public” bathroom. This was my first time staying at a hotel where I had to share the bathroom. A rather amusing and inconvenient setup! However; you know the old saying “when in Rome do as the Romans do”! One afternoon I was sitting in the toilet and forgot to lock the door – a man walked in and we were both in shock! He took a good look at me and asked me:

“Ti piacerebbe fare una doccia insieme”? (Would you like to take a shower together?)

I told him I don’t think my husband would appreciate that! He closed the door and said goodbye. It was a hilarious incident and something that I will remember for a very long time. We stayed at the Pensioni for about two weeks until our apartment became available.

Making arrangements for our apartment

About a week later, we made an appointment with the owner (our future landlord) to talk about price. We entered the apartment and noticed that it was quaint and small; however; location was prime. It was located near the “Boboli Gardens”. The Boboli Gardens is a park in Florence that is home to a collection of sculptures dating from the 16th through the 18th centuries, with some Roman antiquities. The view from our window was spectacular! You might say it was a “Room with a View”. We had a magnificent view of the “Duomo” and “Ponte Vecchio” (old bridge). The owner of the house, whom I called “Senhora” wanted to be paid in Lira (this was before the Euro became Italy’s currency.) Her son; however, convinced her that she should be paid in U.S. Dollars! “Molto Intelligente” son! We agreed on a price. We do not recall the amount we agreed upon but I believe it was around US dollars 600.00/month.

That was pretty pricy considering it was 1980 – but it was Florence so no complaints! We loved our apartment. It was positioned in an idyllic location. Walking distance to shops and sightseeing. However; I had one complaint the bed was very, very soft and sagged a lot! I am used to sleep on a very hard mattress! I met my friendly neighbors and one lady (Carol) was from England and had lived in Florence for many, many years and had no intention of going back to England (only for a visit). We were informed that all our bills (gas, electricity and water) needed to be paid at the post office. This was rather convenient. As a matter of fact, all invoices or bills we received had to be paid through the post office. I don’t know if this is the same procedure today.

Florence and environs

Before moving to Florence; Yvonne learned a bit of Italian and it helped – a little! When someone spoke too fast, Yvonne got completely lost! She knew how to say Thank you, goodbye, and how are you – but discovered later that the word “CIAO’ and “Grazie” would suffice for now until she learned the language better. Whenever the Italian people got angry or emotional the words “Madonna di Santo Spirito” was announced, quite loudly, and the hand was raised to show their frustration! Raising of the hand with three or four pinched fingers raised straight up was done quite frequently when someone got angry, frustrated, or emotional. Body language, in Italy, is an important part of making his or her point. I found that quite amusing and after living there for a couple of years I started to do it!

The first few months Yvonne was in Renaissance heaven! Wherever she went she did not have to walk too far to see beautiful and captivating architecture, incredibly stunning oil paintings, towering and opulent statues, particularly Michelangelo’s “The David”. She could not believe that she was really living in beautiful Florence.

One day Michael wanted to go to an “art” auction. Michael, Mario, myself and Kerry all went. Michael was very shy and he wanted Yvonne to bid on paintings that he liked and wanted. I told him I never did that before and I might be spending “millions of Lira”! He replied millions of Lira is no problem – since you can be a millionaire quite easily, considering we were getting approximately 1,500 lire to the US dollar at that time! (The Euro was not yet introduced.) He liked one painting. A distinguished looking man dressed up in 18th century garb and looking very, very eccentric. The only problem was that there was a portion of the painting where the paint had faded. Michael asked me to repair it. I told him that I was not an “art restorer” and I might damage the painting more if I tried to restore it. Michael replied I trust you! I have to admit I did a pretty good job in restoring that painting. After I repaired Michael’s painting, I became very inspired and started to paint myself. Michael asked me to paint a “Swedish girl” dressed in Christmas attire. I did paint it and he hung it in his bedroom wall. About 10 years later when I visited Michael, I asked him where the painting was and he replied “somewhere in the barn”! I guess my dream to become a Ms. Yvonne da Vinci was not to be! I did paint two copies of the same painting and kept one. It is presently hanging in our bedroom.

The Piazza's (squares) were all adorned with beautiful statues; however, the pigeon droppings made a mess of the statues. One of the pigeons managed to drop a few droppings on my shoulder, but not to worry, it was considered good luck! I hoped there were pigeon droppings on a daily basis. I need all the luck I can get!

One day I took the time to visit the Uffizi museum (The Uffizi Gallery is a prominent art museum located adjacent to the Piazza Della Signoria in the center of Florence.) Allow yourself some time as there is a lot to see. The Uffizi museum is organized as a long labyrinth of rooms with amazing works of art displayed roughly in chronological order along with a U-shaped Renaissance building. One of the most important Italian museums and the most visited. It is also one of the largest and best known in the world and holds a collection of priceless works, particularly from the period of the Italian Renaissance. Today, the Uffizi is one of the most popular tourist attractions of Florence and one of the most visited art museums in the world (Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uffizi). Booking advance reservations is highly recommended as the lines are very, very long especially during the summer time.

When I entered the room where “La Primavera” was displayed I was in complete awe! The painting covered the entire wall. The artist, Botticelli truly made the painting look real; the colors were vibrant, vivid and alive. A magnificent piece of art! A masterpiece of the Florentine Renaissance. This complex allegorical and mythological painting brings together the elegance of Gothic art, the decorative beauty of the International Gothic and the humanistic narrative of the Italian Renaissance. It contains numerous references to classical and contemporary texts, and is open to almost endless interpretations by scholars and art historians. According to the Uffizi, it was probably painted to celebrate the wedding of Lorenzo Medici and Semiramide Appiani, which took place in May 1482. (Source: http://www.visual-arts-cork.com/famous-paintings/primavera.html.)

When I entered the “Accademia” museum I saw the statue of “David”! Wow, what a sight that was. I could not believe the colossal size it was especially the feet and the organ! The muscles protruded and were very visible. A wonderful piece of anatomy. The “David” a perfect symbol of Florence. Michelangelo captured the unwavering courage and strength of David. It was truly an intense feeling I had when I saw it for the first time. According to history.com Michelangelo pronounced (mikel-an-je-lo) was a sculptor, painter and architect considered to be one of the greatest artists of the Renaissance period.

His work demonstrated a blend of psychological insight, physical realism and intensity never before seen. I would have to agree with history.com wholeheartedly. I was running around Florence “like a headless chicken”. I was like a sponge trying to absorb and immerse myself in all the beautiful fine arts Florence has to offer and it was incessant.

It was easy to get around Florence. On one occasion, while walking around the city, someone pinched me on my butt! I turned around and saw a very handsome, flirtatious, and naughty young man who gave me a “big wink”! My first experience with “butt pinching”. I did not dare “wink” back! I have to admit, in a way I was dazzled that someone considered me attractive! I just ignored him and continued to explore the beautiful city of Florence. Many Italian men, are very handsome… and my goodness do they know it!

I could not believe I was walking on the cobble stone streets that Michelangelo, Leonardo Da Vinci, Botticelli and many more artists walked on. I had to pinch myself to believe that I truly was in Florence and that it was not a dream! It gave me the “heebie-jeebies”! When entering the “Duomo” I could not believe how beautiful the inside was. The Duomo Cathedral of Florence, also called the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, is basically a church, a catholic church, and a beautiful one at that. Probably one of the most beautiful churches I have ever seen. It is enormous. It took about 142 years to build and construction began around 1293. At that time technology did not exist to create a dome with such base. A very impressive creation of architecture.

I loved walking up and down “Ponte Vecchio” (old bridge). The medieval Ponte Vecchio is one of the most charming and iconic sites in Florence. The bridge was built in 1345. Today, you will find jewelers, art vendors and antique boutiques. Some of the jeweler shops are so small only one person can fit into it. Everything was within a fifteen to twenty- minute walk to our apartment. If I was driving a car it would be an absolute nightmare as parking is practically non-existent! The cobblestone roads were made for horse and buggy and not for present-day automobiles especially big ones!

Open air markets and Flea markets are in abundance and a great deal of fun. The beating heart of the food scene. The atmosphere is lively and noisy. The, singing and sometimes dancing cadence of the vendors words as they call out their products are whimsical. As Eleonora Baldwin of gamberosso.it. so vividly describes:

"Everything, from the aroma of the foods on display to the vibrant colors of sun-ripened produce feeds the senses while soaking up the atmosphere. A day at the market is a unique way to observe the day-to-day lifestyle of the locals. All over the boot-shaped peninsula, markets abound sometimes on a daily basis. The local culture comes alive every morning when bustling shoppers banter with vendors, chatting—often about personal matters—catching up on current events and commenting on latest football results. Conversation first, transaction come later”.

Yvonne’s favorite outdoor market was San Lorenzo market. It runs from the Church of San Lorenzo along Via Ariento all the way to Via Nazionale. There are weekly and monthly markets. Many stalls sell leather goods, souvenirs, food and household goods. I was able to bargain. San Lorenzo market contains two separate markets. One market is full of stalls. Some merchandise is inexpensive, however, not always of good quality; nevertheless, still a lot of fun and the ambience is very cheerful, lively and loud. There are quite a few open-air and flea markets in Florence such as: Central market, Sant’Ambrogio Market, Porcellino Market/Mercato Nuovo, Piazza Ciompi and Santo Spirito and many more. Whichever market she visited, with her friends, they always managed to spend too much money!

Purchasing a scooter and riding around Florence

The sketch you see is of me (Yvonne) on my scooter. I needed to get around Florence and did not want to purchase a car so I decided that it would be easier to get around Florence on a scooter. I purchased a scooter which the Italians called a “motorino”. It was small “motorino” only -49cc so I was not able to drive fast on the cobblestone streets of Florence. The salesman suggested that I purchase an automatic scooter; however, I wanted one with gears! He again insisted that an automatic scooter would be easier to operate, but being a stubborn, Dutch, Indonesian, American I stuck to what I really wanted a motorcycle with gears! I drove off with my new “motorino” (with gears) and managed to get stuck in the middle of “Ponte Vecchio”! Fortunately, a young man taught me how to shift gears and off I went!

What happened after that is an incident I will never forget and might consider writing something on my tombstone about it! Words like “being dumb taught her a lesson”! I stopped at a grocery store to pick up some food. Eggs, bread, cooking oil, butter and a whole chicken. I hung the grocery bag on the steering wheel of the scooter. It was approximately a 20- minute ride to get home and I had forgotten about that very steep hill that I needed to climb in order to get home. I reached the bottom of the hill with a great deal of anxiety because I was not yet an expert and did not quite get the grasp of changing gears yet.

I “revved” up the engine and took off. About halfway up the hill I lost power and started sliding down the hill! I did not change gears quickly enough.

Time for another try. The second time was also a failure and the scooter turned over and rolled down the hill! Eggs were smashed and my chicken was no longer whole. The cooking oil spread all over the road making the road even more slippery. In addition, I managed to hurt my leg. My leg was injured and it started bleeding! I was absolutely furious! The entire situation was becoming quite gnarly, to say the least. I should have listened to that salesman who insisted I purchase an automatic scooter. I had to get home with or without my chicken! I gave myself more “taking off” space. I revved up my scooter to the max and I took off like a rocket with “warp speed”! By now I have had enough practice to make sure I changed gears quickly and on time. As I roared up the hill, the engine went quiet and I said to myself (please God help me make it up this hill). I changed to first gear and accelerated ferociously and made it up that “damn’ hill. (God listened to me.)

To my surprise, when I reached the top of the hill, I heard clapping! I did not realize that I had an audience. I guess I evoked atmosphere by not giving up! When I got home my neighbor (Carol) looked at me and just shook her head. She saw blood running down my leg and immediately got her first aid kit. I guess you could call this a “bloody experience”! Lesson learned! I loved my motorino. It took me all around Florence. I considered it a very good investment. I had so much fun with that scooter and to make it even more interesting I spent very little money on gasoline.

In the afternoon the Italians (and a few other countries in Europe) have a “riposo” (siesta). Traditionally early afternoon shutdown varies from business to business, but typically lasts about 90 minutes to two hours. It commences anywhere from noon and 1:30p.m. and continue until 2:30 to 4pm. Every summer there was a problem with “water”. At that time, Florence relied on “rain” for water and it can be and is a problem when there is no water. When there was water, I filled up my bathtub with water and used it to cook and give myself a sponge bath until I had running water. I learned to improvise and wing it.

Eateries

My first experience eating at a trattoria was wonderful. A trattoria is an Italian style eating establishment that is less formal than a “ristorante”. Menus might be Italian only, and I found many locals eating at “trattorias”. Dishes tend to be simpler than at a ristorante; however, the food is delicious and affordable. Soups, fresh pastas, poultry, breads, pizzas and of course spaghetti was served daily. Only fresh condiments were used. The Italians are very picky eaters! They prefer to eat “fresh” made food, and I can’t blame them as that is the best kind of food to eat. I was in “pearly gates of heaven” whenever I ate at a trattoria or restaurant.

On one occasion my friend (Craig) visited me, from Los Angeles. We went to a restaurant to have dinner and we asked the waiter for two glasses of wine; he brought a “gallon” of red wine. We told him we only wanted a glass each, he replied:

“nessun problema senhora, ti faccio pagare solo per quello che hai bevuto” (meaning no problem Miss I will only charge you for what you drink). "

Fair enough! After, a couple of hours of drinking, eating and chit- chatting we noticed that the “gallon of wine” was completely gone! Craig and I looked at each other and said have we become alcoholics? “Molto Intelligente waiter”! He knew, of course, that we would drink the entire bottle! No regrets! We had a very enjoyable evening and ordered another gallon of wine…

On many occasions Michael, Mario, Kerry and myself went out to have breakfast at a bar. Italian bars are the center of social life in Italy but are not a place to drink a great deal of alcohol and become drunk. Individuals of all ages can go to the bar; there are no age restrictions – kids come with their parents. It is possible to see a lot of people playing cards, watching TV, reading a newspaper or just gathering together to talk. Breakfast at a bar usually consists of coffee and a pastry. Very delicious pastry made fresh. Sweet pastries such as: chiacciere, pasticciotto, bomboloni and castagnole. I would usually order two sometimes three at a time. Obviously, I had a sweet tooth.

One day when we all had breakfast at a nearby bar, I grabbed my coffee and pastry and sat down. Michael shouted, No, Yvonne, do not sit down! I immediately stood up. I thought maybe there might be “pigeon droppings” on my chair and Michael was warning me! I looked at Michael and said why did you tell me not to sit down. He pointed his finger at the people that were standing by the bar, and asked me why do you think they are standing instead of sitting at a table. I replied, they like to stand up! He said, no! If you sit down you will be charged! Prices are posted – al banco meaning the price for consuming a beverage at the bar or alla tavola meaning the price at the table. Typically, bars located in bigger cities and especially near tourist centers, prices will and do increase more especially when you are sitting outside (I guess you are paying for the pleasant ambience.)

I found this one trattoria (literally a hole in the wall) which only seated about 12 people but the food was excellent and there was always a long line. The prices were quite reasonable. I got to know the waiter well and as I ate there often, the owners always managed to find me a place to sit so I can enjoy the delectable and mouth-watering cuisine. One morning I went to the local “deli” to purchase eggs. I walked in and there was a man behind the counter. I wasn’t sure how I would ask for eggs in Italian so I decided to try anyway. The conversation went something like this:

Yvonne: Vorrei Uomo” per favore. (I would like to order a man please)

Man behind counter: He looked at me with great excitement. “Mi scusi signora vuoi un uomo” (excuse me Miss but did you order a man!)

Yvonne: “Si” (yes)

Man behind counter: “Eccomi qui” (here I am)

Apparently, I ordered a “man” instead of eggs. I should have asked for “Uova” (meaning egg) not “Uomo” (meaning man). He knew I was a straniero (a foreigner who spoke horrible Italian.) After that lost in translation occurrence, I visited his deli many times and we became good friends and he was still offering himself if and whenever I wanted him!

Move to Fiesole (pronounced fee-s-so-lee)

About two years later, after we arrived in Florence, Kerry and I decided to move to a lovely “villetta” (small villa/house) in the city of Fiesole. The villetta was owned by family “Tei”. The head of the household was a rather flirtatious and dirty old man. On many occasions, when no one was looking he would hold my hand and pinch my butt! The butt pinching was becoming too frequent! We occupied the apartment upstairs. Fiesole is a lovely town in the scenic hills of Tuscany above Florence with Etruscan roots, jaw-dropping vistas, strikingly and wonderfully green, Roman ruins and an absolute spectacular view of Florence on clear days. Fiesole has been a choice location for aristocracy, nobility and the wealthy for many years. That particular city has many historic villas and mansions with exquisite and impeccable gardens. The view of the “Duomo” appeared ten times its size when viewing it from Piazza Mino (a square in downtown Fiesole). In the summer the breezes cool the hot temperature and outdoor shows and fanfare were performed in the Roman Amphitheater.

Fiesole is located about five miles north of Florence and you can easily arrive there by bus. If I was not riding my “motorino” (I was becoming quite a good “motorino rider” after a few months and did not have any more terrible accidents, I guess I learned my lesson). I would take bus # 7 from downtown Florence to Piazza Mino (Fiesole) on many occasions.

I did not know it at the time but the luxurious Villa de Maiano estate, was used in the 1985 film “A Room with a View”. “A Room with a View” apparently received eight Academy Awards nominations, including best picture, and won three. No, I did not have a role in that movie! If I was offered one, I would most definitely accept!

There was one grocery store called “Coop” which I frequently visited, only because it carried some American products that I missed such as peanut butter. We absolutely loved Fiesole – probably even more so than Florence.

Time to go to work

About two weeks after Kerry and I arrived in Florence, Michael asked me if I would be interested in working at a jewelry shop located at Piazza Santa Croce; named “Cellinis”. This work would only be seasonal from May through end of September. I said, I would be interested; however, I did not know anything about selling 18Kt gold jewelry and I did not have a “work permit” to work in Italy. He said that a work permit is not needed (as long as I did not get caught by Italian Immigration.) That did not make me feel comfortable, but it was a way for me to earn pocket money and will be kept busy while Kerry was away at work and besides there were many foreigners working in Florence without a work permit and obtaining a “Permisso di Soggiorno (permission to stay) was not easily obtained, so I joined the “illegal workers” and hoped that I would not be caught! I can just see my parents face if they found out their daughter was in jail because she broke the law! My father would kill me!

18kt Gold was sold by the weight and at that time it was approximately US$ 20 per gram. Cellinis needed English speaking employees as many English-speaking tourists came to Florence (especially Americans) and since I was American, I would blend in well and might even be good at selling Italian made jewelry. In my opinion 18kt Italian made jewelry is the best. The reason why I think that is because jewelers require a high degree of skill, precision and attention to detail and the Italian craftsmanship is superb. After a month I was becoming very comfortable and was selling jewelry like “hot cakes” especially to Americans; of course.

American women loved 18kt gold jewelry and were spending thousands of dollars each time they came to Cellinis. I was averaging US$ 2,000 to $5,000 sales a day- five days a week! On one occasion an American Lady from Texas purchased around US$8,000, worth of jewelry. Absolutely insane; crazy Americans! There were a few “gold shops” located in Florence and once word got around that Yvonne was selling thousands of dollars of gold jewelry a day, they all wanted to hire me! There was even a gold-leather shop behind the Church (Basilica of Santa Croce). I wonder if the Pope knew about this place? Maybe there were some undiscovered treasures buried in this Church such as prehistoric relics? The mystery lingers…

Complications with work permit

Since Kerry and I decided that we would live in Italy indefinitely, I wanted to obtain the proper documentation to work legally in Italy. That meant getting a “Permisso di Soggiorno” (permission to stay). Michael knew that I had a Dutch father and he suggested that I obtain a Dutch passport as The Netherlands belonged to the EU (European Union). If I was in possession of an EU passport I could work and live legally in EU countries and Italy was a member of the European Union. Prior to moving to Italy, I had a feeling that this might be a possibility so I brought with me a document that was signed and stamped by the Dutch authorities to prove that my father was most definitely a Dutch citizen and that his children could also acquire Dutch nationality. A good thing I brought this document with me as it proved to be very useful.

Kerry and I hopped on a train en-route to Rome to visit the Dutch Embassy. I presented my U.S. passport and the document that proves my fathers’ Dutch citizenship. The lady looked at the document and said that she needed to call The Netherlands to verify that the document is legal as the document was over 50 years old. The document was indeed legal. Soon after that she told me that I would be eligible to obtain a Dutch passport; however, I would have to surrender my U.S. passport! I said, thank you and walked out.

About a week after the trip to Rome I happen to be waiting for a bus and behind me was the Dutch Honorary Consulate General. I did not know that there was a Dutch Honorary Consulate General in Florence, it was just a coincidence that I happened to be standing right in front of the office. An Honorary Consul is an official representative of the government of one state in the territory of another, normally acting to assist and protect the citizens of the consul’s own country, and to facilitate trade and friendship between the people of the two countries. Activities of an honorary consul include protecting the interests of their citizens temporarily or permanently resident in the host country, issuing passports; issuing visas to foreigners and public diplomacy. However, the principal role of a consulate lies traditionally in promoting trade—assisting companies to invest and to import and export goods and services both inwardly to their home country and outward to their host country. ( Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Consul_(representative).

I had an idea. Why don’t I pay a visit to the Dutch Honorary Consulate General in Florence, and see if I can obtain a Dutch passport. I walked in the office, presented the same document that I gave to the Dutch Embassy in Rome, and requested a Dutch passport. The consulate said, no problem, it will be ready in a week. Imagine that…. I was totally perplexed! I asked her if I have to surrender my U.S. passport and she said, “No” and that I could have dual nationality. I could not believe it. The Dutch Embassy in Rome told me something completely different!

I felt very relieved until I had to deal with the Italian authorities! About two weeks later I received my Dutch passport. I presented the Dutch passport to the Comune di Firenze (similar to our city Hall) to request a “Permisso di Soggiorno”. The gentleman looked at my passport and said the following:

"Si, signorina, hai un passaporto Olandese, ma non sei Olendese perche sei nato in Indonesia (Yes, Miss you are in possession of a Dutch passport but you are not really a Dutch citizen because you were born in Indonesia!) "

I give up! How much more of this nonsense and absurdity do I have to take? This is just total madness! Instead of groaning and squawking about it I decided to go to the Comune di San Casciano (where I lived). I presented my Dutch passport to the person working at the Comune di San Casciano and requested a work permit. The person in charge said “no problem” we will have it ready in a week! Hallelujah! I have outwitted the authorities! I finally got my work permit for Italy. Excessive multiplication and concentration of power in, administrative bureaus with a great deal of red tape was routine in Italy; however, having traveled extensively and dealing with Consulates and Embassies in the past many times, I knew that this bureaucracy exists worldwide, not only in Italy! Unfortunately; presently, the laws in Holland have changed and I am no longer entitled to Dutch citizenship.

We acquired a roommate – day trips from Florence

Kerry had a friend named, Jorge. Jorge is Peruvian and also a Tour Manager. We called him George. George worked for the same company as Kerry did. George had a talent that just blew me away! He spoke six different languages fluently (including, of course, Italian) and was able to converse using all six languages at the same time. Jorge would live with us in Fiesole whenever he was not working. He had a heart of gold but was very much overweight! He had difficulties finding clothes that would fit him…extra, extra, extra -large just did not exist at that time! He loved to eat and Italian food was his favorite. When George was not working, we would take day excursions from Florence to beautiful places such as Siena, Vinci, Pisa, San Gimignano, Portofina and, of course, Venice.

At that time Kerry and I had purchased a used automobile, an “Alfa Romeo”. That automobile was fast! I loved driving it on the “Autostrade”! One day I was driving too fast and the police stopped me. He knew I was a foreigner (as my Italian was horrible) so he let me go with a warning. On one occasion Jorge suggested that we visit “Cinque Terre” pronounced Chink-wa Terra). I asked him if there was a lot of walking to do and he said “a little”. Cinque Terre is a collection of lovely towns along the Italian Riviera; Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Manarola, Corniglia and Riomaggiore.

Each town is insanely beautiful! These five fishing villages hug the cliffs above the Mediterranean. The trail that connects the five villages is about 11 kilometers long (about 6.8 miles) and it would take approximately 5 hours to walk through all the villages. By the time we finished walking through all the towns we were ready to take a very long nap! I did not realize that “a little” meant 5 hours of walking with many – many steps! As Ingrid K. Williams of the New York Times described Cinque Terre; “This wildly rugged slice of Ligurian coast with its five tiny towns is a delight for hikers, foodies and wine enthusiasts”. (https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2016/09/01/travel/what-to-do-36-hours-in-the-cinque-terre-italy.html) How true that was. I especially loved the different variety of food, especially sea food – which I love. I became an Italian food junkie and drinking a gallon of wine did not bother me! I wondered if I was becoming an alcoholic?

George was my traveling mate when Kerry was working. George lived with us for six to seven months during the year as the peak season for “tourism” for Europe started around April and ended in late September early October. When I visited the city of “Vinci” near the town of Anchiano (where Leonardo Da Vinci was born) I was very impressed and fascinated with all the creative work Leonardo was involved with. Leonardo da Vinci was a painter, architect, inventor and pupil of all things scientific. He was a natural genius and crossed so many activities that he symbolized the term “Renaissance man”. We all know him, of course, for the famous and admired “Mona Lisa” and “The Last Supper” and many-many more beautiful creations. I was able to personally view the Mona Lisa at the Louvre in Paris a few years later. I was surprised that the actual painting was very small. I also saw “The Last Supper” painting in Milan. As Jen of “jenonajetplane.com” wrote The Last Supper” adorns the Santa Maria Delle Grazie church, (Milan) located about a 15-minute walk from the Duomo. The miraculous thing about the painting is that it remains; despite being bombed during World War II. All other walls on the church collapsed, except this one. The monks took precautions to protect the wall in case of an attack, but the feat of survival is an impressive, if not divine, one nonetheless.

Month of August

During the month of August everything closes down. It is the beginning of exodus from the cities and towns for families not working in the tourist industry. It is a traditional time for Italians to go on their summer holidays to the seaside, the mountains or back to the family home located in the country side. I could not get any gasoline, no milk, no groceries, even the post office had limited hours and many times they were on strike. Strikes occur often in Italy but usually did not last very long. Some establishments were open. Places like pharmacies, museums, art galleries and churches will remain open. Because the gas stations were closed, I was not able to fill up. One day I ran out of gas and I had to push my motorino all the way home! It started raining profusely and I had to face that “damn hill” again and face another perilous journey back home! I decided to wait until the rain stopped! I did not want to make a “fool” of myself again. After my first experience with the month of August, the following year I was more prepared and made sure that I stocked up on everything including gas for my scooter.

I had the opportunity to work with Kerry on a 25-day Mediterrean cruise. This cruise was on a small ship “The Jason”. Kerry was the Cruise director and I was his assistant. It was a fabulous trip. The ship docked at many exotic places such as Malta, Israel, Egypt, Tunisia, Islands in Greece, and Cyprus. Every day we were at a different port. An unforgettable trip.

Off to England to get married

Kerry and I decided that it was time for us to get married. We had been living with each other for over six years and by now we knew that was time to take the big step. Kerry is my “soulmate” and we were meant for each other. He is a very relaxed, thoughtful, humble, grateful and an appreciative person. I could not ask for a better husband. We thought it would be best to get married in England since his sister, Leah, mother Gloria and brother- in -law Brian lived there and it was just a short flight from Florence.

We left in the middle of December and was not aware of the fact that Florence suffered the worst winter ever. We were married in Salisbury, England and honeymooned in Paris and London. It wasn’t easy to get married in England as the Church of England (at that time) did not consider “divorced Catholics” legal. Kerry was divorced and was of Catholic denomination. We did, finally, find a church that would marry us. The Pastor did not care what religion we were. I loved spending two months in England and especially loved the apartment we rented near a small, quaint little village called “Gussage All Saints”.

Two weeks later we flew back to Florence and found our apartment in complete shambles! We did not leave the heater on when we left for England and since it was the coldest winter Florence ever experienced in many years, our “radiator heaters” exploded and the metal flew all over the place. The walls, sofa, and beds were filthy. The television broke and there was “slush” and “mud” all over the place. I wondered if there were any small creatures lurking behind the walls, if there were, I hope they were all dead! The water inside the radiator heaters froze and expanded and ultimately exploded! If we had left the heater on this would not have happened. It took about a week to give our apartment a thorough cleaning. Our honeymoon was over! The following winter we got smarter and put “antifreeze” inside the radiator heaters to prevent it from freezing, expanding and exploding. You live and learn.

Time to invest and buy a house in Tuscany

During the month of January, February and March, Kerry and Michael were not working so we would get together often and visited many fascinating places, have lunch and dinner and just “hang out” and enjoy life. I loved this time of the year.

The cold weather did not bother me. Kerry bought me a very nice thick coat, which was very-very warm. By this time, we had already purchased a car; an Alfa Romeo. I drove! None of the boys, Kerry, Michael or Mario drove! They just wanted a chauffeur to drive them around. What, is wrong with this picture? George went back home to Peru and will return next April to start his work again.

We all decided that it would be a great investment if we purchased a home in Tuscany, and I agreed. The question is where? There are few places in the world like the Tuscany region in Italy. It has it all; magnificent landscapes with many gentle hills, vines cultivated as far as the eye can see, medieval historical towns, Renaissance art, Italy’s best wineries, mouth-watering -fit -for -a -king food, gorgeous, mild and fair weather, genius artists of the Renaissance period, what more do you want? I could not think of a better place to live on a permanent basis. We visited many different places and inspected many different houses and ultimately decided to purchase a home near San Casciano Val di Pesa, near the town of Cerbaia and La Ripa.

It was a building which was at one time an enormous barn. The owner (an architect) purchased it and converted it into condominiums. There were 5 units. Michael purchased the end unit and Kerry and I purchased the middle unit. It was a 2- story building and the bedroom was upstairs. Years later, there was a special addition in “Architectural Digest” magazine where Michael’s home was advertised with strikingly intense vivid details presenting the appearance of someone who has very good taste, that was Michael and Mario. A very interesting article. I wish I can remember which addition it was as I would love to have a copy. We left Fiesole and moved to our new home in San Casciano Val di Pesa-La Ripa. I could no longer use my motorino as I was a country girl now and to get to our house from the nearest town, I would have to drive on dirt roads (unpaved) and when it started raining it was impossible to drive on those muddy and slippery roads, even with a car. I was still working in Florence and had to take the bus every day. This became a bit of a nuisance, so I decided to quit working.

Kerry was not working during the winter time so we both had time to enjoy our new home. Since Michael and Mario were our neighbors, we saw each other frequently and had dinner together quite often. Mario always cooked and whatever he made it was always delicious! I was a terrible cook and was embarrassed to ask Michael and Mario to come over our house to have dinner as the meals I prepared was very bland, but when I did cook our friends were very polite and did not give any bad comments about my bad cooking and Kerry never complained about my tasteless cooking.

It was winter time and the Tuscany region is charming and pleasant all year round. The weather conditions, in winter, are quite good although; very cold. It usually snows only in the mountainous areas. Also, this time of the year there are fewer tourists, more activities for us to enjoy. The lines in the museums are not long and we are able to enjoy more Tuscan highlights. Winter is the best time to avoid annoying queues and visits to the “must see” Tuscan entertainment. In January, shopping is the best. The great winter sale begins. We were able to find great deals on brand clothes, shoes, bags and many more articles. And then, of course, there are the open- air markets where you can find bargains galore.

Our neighbor made his own wine and we could purchase a bottle of red wine for only 1 US dollar. I was becoming quite a wine drinker. My favorite red wine was Chianti. Chianti is a very dry red wine, like most Italian wines tastes best with food. It ranges from light-bodied to almost full-bodied, according to the district, producer, vintage, and again regime. It often has an aroma of cherries and sometimes violets, and has a flavor reminiscent of tart cherries. (Source: Italian Wine for Dummies by Mary Ewing-Mulligan, Ed McCarthy). Since I started liking, drinking wine, I decided to try and grow my own grapes and ultimately make my own wine. Unfortunately, I was not able to see it come to fruition because of the sad and somber event that was about to become a reality.

The dream has ended

A new threat occurred - hijacking of airplanes! This came from organized terrorist destroying aircrafts to draw attention. Terrorists groups were responsible for the bombing of many flights. Air India flight over the Irish coast. A Pan Am flight flying over Scotland and many more. This hijacking of airplanes started earlier. Beginning of 1969 until end of June 1970, there were 118 incidents of unlawful seizure of aircrafts and 14 incidents of sabotage and armed attacks against civil aviation. This involved airlines of 47 countries and more than 7,000 passengers. In this period, 96 people were killed and 57 were injured as a result of hijacking, sabotage and armed attacks. (Wikipedia.org). Americans and non-Americans stopped traveling to Europe. The hijacking intensified in 1985. Kerry’s boss advised him, Michael and George that there was no work for them that year. Kerry, Michael and George were out of a job! What were we to do? George just arrived in Italy from Peru ready to start a new season of work. We had just purchased our home in Tuscany and there will be no income coming in that year. We had no alternative but to go home to California.

We left Michael in charge of selling our home. This was such a sad, heart-broken and somber time for us, as we had to leave a place we loved so much and we did now know what the future held in store for us. By this time Kerry’s son, Kerry Jr moved in with us. So, we had another person to take care of. We decided that it was best to go back to California. As tears flowed down my face – gut wrenching sobs that tore through my chest, I said my final goodbye to beautiful Florence, Michael, Mario, Tuscany and all my friends.

I swore that one day I would return, which did occur, about 20 years later and discovered that the home we purchased was on sale of Euro 500,000 and we purchased that home for approximately US$ 40,000! Wrong, move selling our home in Tuscany – something we will always regret. We (Kerry, Kerry Jr, myself and George) boarded a train, in Florence enroute to Brussels, and then a plane from Brussels to Los Angeles.

When all your hopes and dreams become shattered, we rely on memories and cherish the good ones and learn from the bad ones. It is important to create memories every day and be grateful. Life is short and time passes quickly. Memories are so important. The memories that Kerry and I have of the wonderful life we had together, in Italy, will remain with us forever. We experienced moments of joy, sadness, frustration, and anger but mostly happiness. As Carlos Lopez Pardo of kuicco.com so poignantly stated:

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“Our memories are what we are, what makes us made the decisions we make, act as we act and love as we love. We would be nothing without our memories. The most important part of a memory is the emotion or emotions it brings. All memories carry with them one or more associated emotions. Those who come with more powerful emotions, fear, disgust, anger, sadness, nostalgia, happiness, etc.., are the ones that last the most in our memory. It is precisely these emotions that get us to learn from our experiences so that, in the future, we know how to make the decisions that will cause us a more pleasant emotional state”.

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Added feature- Yvonne’s trips

I have worked in the travel industry for over 40 years and have traveled extensively (approximately 50 countries.): I have lived in Indonesia (country of birth), The Netherlands, Portugal, England and Italy. Each place I have visited has something unique to offer and I have several favorite destinations. Places I have visited: Bali, Indonesia is probably my favorite Island. The Balinese people are humble and genuine. The island, of course, is absolutely extraordinary. Bali is a magical place; beautiful rice paddies, delicious food, fantastic scenery and much more. Italy is my favorite destination in Europe. The Italian culture and history are so rich, fascinating and awe inspiring. I lived in Florence for five years and purchased a home in Tuscany.

Nepal is the most fascinating country I have visited. I had the opportunity to stay at "Tiger Tops" (hotel built on wooden stilts) located in Chitwan National Park and personally saw a "Bengal Tiger". I could not believe what a beautiful animal "Bengal" tiger is. I also trekked for ten days on one of the mountains located near Mt. Everest and had my own personal "Sherpa". I had the opportunity to ride on an elephant. After my elephant did a number “2” the tail moved around so much and managed to hit my face and my face was full of “elephant doo”. Needless to say, the group I was traveling with did not come near me for a few days! Ahh… Rio de Janeiro! What a captivating and intriguing city Rio is. I have never encountered so many different nationalities get along with each other so well and the way they danced was absolutely mesmerizing and spellbinding!

When I visited the island of “Curacao” (located in the Caribbean) I went swimming in the lovely blue ocean and did not realize there was a “shark” near me. I was told to get back to land immediately…I never swam so fast in my life! I love Asia and have visited exotic destinations such as: Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia and Indonesia on several occasions. The Asian people make you feel at home and their hospitality is heart-warming.

When I visited Hong Kong, I asked a “fortune teller” to read my fortune. She told me that I was going to be purchasing a new home soon… I was not told that “soon” meant 25 years later! I traveled to Vietnam with my best friend. Upon arrival, at my friend’s house, police were waiting for us and confiscated our passports (which was returned to us upon departure and payment of US$ 50). This is what happens when you visit a Communist country. Tourist typically do not stay at local resident homes and when they do the local authorities are alerted of foreigner’s arrivals. When visiting Israel, I had the opportunity to visit "Golan Heights" and ended up dodging bullets flying in all different directions! When exploring, one of the "Pyramids" in Egypt, I managed to get lost and I thought I would end up being "mummified" - lucky for me my tour guide found me!

Kerry and I were in charge of taking care of 250 passengers on a 25 -day Mediterranean cruise. Kerry was the Cruise Director and I was his assistant. We had the special privilege to dine with the Captain every night. The ship stopped in many different ports: Greece, France, Italy, Tunisia, Israel, Egypt and Malta. En-route to Tunisia the Captain received a message from the health authorities in Tunisia. There was a “Cholera break out” and not to dock in Tunisia. Last minute changes were made and our ship docked at a lovely Greek island where alcohol and a lot of food was offered free of charge; due to the deviation. Needless to say, we had 250 “happy and drunk passengers” on the ship who did not want to leave the Island!

Traveling "broadens your horizons". Learning and experiencing different cultures fascinates me. We are living in a global village today. It is important to understand different cultures. If we are to live peacefully with other nations, religions, etc…we must respect and try to understand their way of life despite fundamental disagreement(s). If we treat each other as individuals, not groups, this will go a very long way in creating a better environment where we can all prosper and flourish.

Visiting and actually living in a different country is not the same. I have learned a great deal about diversity and culture and it is through that experience that I have learned to value my own culture and to respect other "savoir -faire" equally. It is important travelers realize that the reason for traveling is to experience new adventures and to accept and respect the way of life in each country: as is! Do not compare it with the life you presently have. If you do you might as well stay home. I have been very fortunate to have had the opportunity to experience all the wonderful and memorable times I spent in this fascinating world we live in and I am eager to do more traveling and create more wonderful memories.

Travel is not the same as it was 20/30 years ago and it is becoming more difficult and challenging with all the unrest in this world; however, in my opinion, it is still the best way to experience cultures and diversity. These are only a few descriptions of the many trips that I have taken. I chose the most interesting and humorous ones.

As they say in Italy: "CIAO" for now.

If you would like to find out more about my travels, please visit “You Tube” and in the search box type “Yvonne’s Passages”. I will be creating more videos of my travels and would appreciate if you “like and subscribe”. Thank you.