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Bye Mom, I'm Going to Mongolia

I don't get out much.

By Angalee FernandoPublished 3 years ago 26 min read
2
"Rainbow in Mongolian Steppe" by Martin Vorel

Did you know that the everyday dichotomy of little girls is quite simple? It looks something like this -

When I was 10, the deciding factor for the above coin flip came to me through a magical YouTube recommendation. It was a music video of a Mongolian folk song called "Qinghai Lake¹ by Daiqing Tana and Haya Band." At the time, I didn't know anything about the culture, apart from Genghis Khan - this man's a part of the general, ingrained knowledge we're all born with, right?

Anyhow, click.

In the first few seconds, Tana belted out through her traditional Mongolian Wailing style, and I? I ceased to exist.

I felt as if I'd been teleported to the Tibetan Plateau, breathing in the crisp continental air of "The Land of the Blue Sky." This definitely wasn't a regular bop. Rather, it was the first musical piece in memory that forced me to sit still. You might consider me a strange child, and okay, that's fair, but just listen to her -

Ongmanibamai by Daiqing Tana and Haya Band

Though I'd grow up, and my musical palette would bland out for the sake of fitting in, to this day Tana's voice stands far removed from the rest. I love the way it pierces the air as if she's breathing life into the mic. Add in that Moorin Khuur (horsehead fiddle), Tanbur (fretted lute), and shaman drums, and I'm somewhere I've never known.

from left to right: Chen Xibo, Daiqing Tana, Baoyin, and Zhang Quansheng

Their eclipsing talent is especially obvious with that mantra, "Ong Mani Ba Mai," rooted in the Sanskrit "Om Mani Padme Hum." It's a hefty chant that's a tad difficult to translate into English, but let's give it a shot.

often translated as "Praise to the Jewel in the Lotus," referencing the flower that grows out of the mud.

Still confused? Sounds about right.

The meaning of each syllable is vast, and a bit mind-boggling to take in word by word. Sutras appear so clipped because it's not meant to be digested verbally; instead, the yogic student must chew over the parts until he comes to realize the underlying meaning that ties everything together (ties for "sutra" means string). The hope is that in doing so, rather than being disciplined by a mere line, he opens up a faculty of his consciousness to live by naturally.

The best part? 10 year old me didn't have to know any of that, and neither do you for the meaning to strike your heart at some level. Beyond language, their melodies alone are enough to purify, to allure. Yep, for a whole phase, I'd come home after school, turn on a track, and just close my eyes. Sometimes, I'd even try to sing wail along (a moment of silence for my neighbors' hearing, and yeah, probably not the best choice of words). All considered, my wanderlust for Mongolia grew deep in those impressionable, baby years.

But Mongolia? My mom, whose mama bear instincts act up when I leave to check the mail, would never. But, then came another sign which made me wish that I could book a ticket right then and there -

Recall the Mongol Empire Unit from 7th Grade History? Perhaps this word was also bolded in your text - steppes. What's that?

steppes!

from Webster's: "one of the vast usually level and treeless tracts in southeastern Europe and Asia."

steppes, the stuff of fairytales

Mom, if you're reading this, *mwah* I've made up my mind. 😌 Sure, my bucket list is a bit niche, but for whatever reason, I've always gravitated towards the little corners of the world tucked away from popular sight - just like photographers set after the uncaptured, or writers seek the unspoken, I crave the unknown. I just know that I'd regret it if I never stepped foot in these places, full of who's knows what?

If 2020, the Great Pause, has taught me anything, it's that these secrets and surprises gotta be revealed in this lifetime. There's an urge in all of us to run away as far as possible, and to me that means

OFF TO MONGOLIA

So here's the plan. We might be looking more at a sabbatical, as opposed to your regular weekend getaway. Why? 1 - the country experiences extreme continental climate via supremely distinct and beautiful seasons; 2 - 25-40% of the population still carry on a millennia-old nomadic lifestyle, which means year-round migration; and 3 - when they do reunite on those choice days, it's festivals, festivals, festivals, and you don't wanna miss out on any. Therefore, the true adventurer might want to stick around for a little longer.

Of course, even Marco Polo probably had to navigate his plans with Momma Polo in mind, so nothing as of yet is set in stone. The following is a dreamed up itinerary with plenty of room to flex. Regardless of what you accomplish, as many travel bloggers love to point out, everything you do in Mongolia is unique - there is no beaten path.

^always, a little music to light the way.

Doubtless, there are some trails you'll want to check off for sure, these being the very bedrock that inspired Mongolia's otherwordly culture. Of course, I'm talking about the country's -

inner Mongolian steppe

NATURE & WILDLIFE

I should point out here, Mongolia is the least densely populated country in the world. With around 3 million inhabitants, it averages less than 2 people per square kilometer. Livestock outnumber humans at a ratio of a dozen to one. You could travel across the country without running into a single person. Then, what's left?

Stretches upon stretches of pure, free, mesmerizing land!

You want snow? Got it. Sunny grassland? Plenty. Desert? You bet. Even crazier, you could see this all in one trip. Such a juggling decision. If I had to choose though, nothing would start off a Mongolian morning better than -

Altai Mountains located in the Bayan-Ölgii Province of W. Mongolia

1. Touring the Mythical Altai Tavan Bogd National Park

Mountaineers, tree-huggers, and LoTR fans gather round: this hulking range is named Tavan Bogd (Таван богд), or "Five Saints," in reference to its number of peaks. Khüiten Uul ('Cold Peak') stands the tallest at 4374 m above sea level, followed by Nairamdal ('Friendship'| 4180 m), Malchin ('Herder'| 4080 m), Bürged ('Eagle'| 4068 m), and Olgii ('Motherland'| 4050 m). Together, these peaks form a bowl around Potanin Glacier.

"What's my favorite word? Icy." - Saweetie

Most tour groups trek to the range via horseback, tying a camel or two along to carry heavier baggage (by far the cutest travel service ever). As well on your journey, you'll get to take in lush valleys and crystalline lakes dotted with the occasional Argali Sheep, Red Deer, Moose, and Golden Eagle.

these guys are wayyy bigger up close, so here's to hoping that they too appreciate me at a distance

Given that these mountains border China and Russia, once you reach the top of Khüiten, you'll be able to look out towards all three countries! On a clear day, you might even catch a glimpse of neighboring Kazakhstan 30 km away.

Khüiten Uul

The last time I went camping was in 6th grade, so ideally I'd love to pass a few days and nights grazing about the park. I must warn however, if you do set up here, things can get a little unpredictable. You might encounter whipping 20 mph winds, or find yourself surrounded by hundreds of goats. I can at least assure you that you won't have to face a bunch of goats whipping around in the wind - no, that's where I draw the line.

Whatever happens though, I get the feeling that all that glacial air will do some good to these pansy Californian lungs. Oh, in the words of David Byrne - 🎶 home, is where I wanna be

@bennocular on Instagram

pick me up and turn me round! 🎵

🎶 I feel numb, born with a weak heart

@bennocular on Instagram

I guess I must be having fun! 🎵 And we're just getting started. What could match the wild richness of the saintly peaks but a trek to -

Gorkhi-Terelj National Park in Töv Province

2. The Secret Temple in Gorkhi-Terelj National Park

Gorkhi-Terelj is a microcosm of everything we picture Mongolia to be - an alpine horizon marked by pines, edelweiss, and glacial lakes. Though the park is considered on the touristy side, that's going by Mongolian numbers, so you'll still find plenty of alone time. But you won't be completely alone - the area is home to brown bears, wolves, and a little more reassuringly, over 250 species of birds. It's the perfect place to get lost and do a little filming. For those with a bit more stamina, there's also rock climbing, whitewater rafting, and as always, horseback riding.

What I'm looking most forward to, however, is journeying to a little monastery tucked away in its rocky hills. One must dismount from his horse, cross the Bridge of Heaven, and climb 108 stone steps to reach Aryapala Temple, a meditation center named after the legend of Aryabal - a Buddhist deity who listens to mankind's prayers and relieves our suffering.

@pasha.shaider on Instagram

It's rumored that the temple was built in such a steep location for its natural energy, which is understandable given the view it overlooks -

!!!

However, if mysticism doesn't do it for you, Gorkhi-Terelj Park does offer something a little more manmade. Guys, I really didn't want to bring him into this, but -

Chinggis (Genghis) Khan Equestrian Statue

He's here too. His legacy ended in the largest equestrian statue in the world at a height of 40 M. Still not enough? Inside the museum situated below is the largest shoe in the world, styled as a traditional boot, and no. I'm not going to show you.

👍

Cool. Let's move on.

Hustai National Park in Töv Province

3. Meet the World's Last Wild Horses at Hustai National Park

Ah, the real stars of the invasion. Of course I kid, these horses may be wild, but from the footage I've seen, they're just super gentle grass-nommers.

Przewalski's Horse, commonly referred to in Mongolia as "Takhi"

This fluffy, stockier variety does look a little different from the domesticated build, rather striking a resemblance to horses in prehistoric cave paintings - they probably were the artists' inspiration, after all! Nowadays, there roams about 450 of them in total, making them critically endangered. Fortunately, UNESCO has recognized these arid steppes the Takhis call home as a reserved biosphere.

One visit is all it takes to invalidate all those "wild horse" metaphors. Just look at 'em 🥺

Takhis aren't Mongolia's only visions of a peaceful, prehistoric past. Let's head North to -

Lake Khövsgöl in Northwestern Mongolia

4. Picnic by Ancient Lake Khövsgöl

Lake Khövsgöl is one of the 17 ancient lakes in the world, dating at nearly 2 million years, with some sources going as far to claim 7 million years. Really makes you want to dip your toes in it, huh?

Nearly 100 rivers flow into its seemingly endless blue, making it the largest freshwater lake (by volume) in Asia. The water has many nicknames, such as "Mother Sea," given that it's probably the closest thing a country as inland as Mongolia gets to the ocean.

Look down and you'll see fish such as salmon, ruff, and endangered Hovsgol grayling swimming about through its clear surface. Look around and the sight is bordered by verdant valleys flocking with wildflowers and grazing herds, alongside the chance elk, sable, and wolverine (*call me sheltered but up until a few days ago, I really did just think this was an X-Men thing!)

much cuter than they sound, wolverines are known to bark more than bite

And last, if you can ignore this growling fur ball over your shoulder, look up for a cottony cloud or two, shifting silently like the water below, and... you get the picture. It's a vision of Spring in what's known to many as a pretty unforgiving land.

@dudeandabroad on Instagram

And I could stare for hours, but eventually the time will come for our next stop! Be forewarned, you'll think we've left the planet entirely because we're heading towards -

Gobi Gurvan Saikhan National Park

5. Sunset at the Gobi Desert

Gobi means "waterless place" in Mongolian, and for the most part, this is true for its half a million square mile area. In the summer, temperatures can get as hot as 37°C (98.6°F ). Nonetheless, the Gobi is still classified as a "Cold Winter Desert," so that when September rolls around, the climes can sink below -32°C (-25°F ). Yes, this means snowfall, with frost often forming on the sand dunes! That I gotta see.

Though, whichever season you go, the weather will vary drastically within the course of the day alone. And yet, however formidable this region may be, its celestial, panoramic views make it all the worthwhile.

@travel._.oil on Instagram

There's tons to explore, but the Khongoryn Els Sand Dunes are a must-see for both you and your newly acquainted camel (again, 5 out of 5 stars, super professional). These dunes tower up to 300 M, and at these peaks you'll easily be able to see the almost out-of-place mountains and grasslands in the distance.

where sand meets grass

Though, the strangest fact in my opinion is that these sands sing. It even threw Marco Polo off way back, when he described the phenomenon as, “the sounds of all kind of musical instruments and also the clash of arms" (Froelich 2015). Nowadays, travelers compare the song to the likes of a fighter jet taking off. Check it out here for yourself. (*note: make sure your volume isn't on blast!)

@travel._.oil on Instagram

Is it just me or does it actually sound like the original Serious Sam game? I'm pretty sure that's the noise the desert setting made when those headless monsters bolted towards you. If you share this lowkey terrifying memory, making the Singing Dunes a big no for you, you could always check out the Flaming Cliffs instead.

Byanazag aka "The Flaming Cliffs" in the Ömnögovi Province

This is the spot where American paleontologist Roy Chapman Andrews dug up fossils back in the 20s. The Oviraptor eggs he uncovered were the first discoveries of dinosaur eggs in history! Soon after, he'd find evidence of other theropods, ornithischians, and even velociraptors.

the treasure!

the voyager!

Even though our big reptilian ancestors² are no longer here with us, the cliffs are magnificent alone. If you hadn't already guessed by their name, at sunset they blaze to life! It's gorgeous, but I'm still craving one more bite of Gobi, something a little less red hot -

Yolyn Am in the Gurvan Saikhan Mountains, Southern Mongolia

Yep, what you're looking at is not out of a fantasy movie. Yolyn Am ('Yol Valley') is an ice field, aka the last thing you'd expect to see in a desert. This canyon is the result of erosion, being protected from the heat so that it can form a several meters-thick ice layer by wintertime. The entire stretch is about 2-3 kilometers, and it's definitely worth a look. Though 'Yol' refers to the Lammergeier vultures that occupy that area, I'm crossing my fingers for a sight of a fellow creature, the elusive snow leopard.

the million-dollar shot

I know it's unlikely, but guess what's also unlikely?

Being in Mongolia. Which is why when I'm there, I'm milking this itinerary. This leads me to the last stop as far as nature and wildlife goes - a place no true nomad-wannabe can skip out on.

Orkhon Valley Cultural Landscape in Central Mongolia

6. Horseback Rides through Orkhon Valley

This vast expanse was once a cradle of nomadic civilization, a home to many tribes including the Huns, Uyghurs, and Kidans. Dotted with a few rivers and hills here and there, the valley is for the most part, silent and immense. A humbling sight indeed.

Though, you may stumble upon ancient leftovers - runic inscriptions, Turkic ruins, and of course, all that remains of Kharakorum, the capital of the Mongol Empire when it was at its height. Surprisingly, so little is left that I couldn't even find any substantial pictures, despite that they indeed exist according to most sources. Guess we'll just have to put our Indiana Jones hat on and find out for ourselves.

@mongolia.explorer on Instagram

After any intense archaeological hunt - we're talking about hours upon hours on horseback - one must rest and soak his sore, dusty self. This is all just a nice way of saying - take a bath. Fortunately, Ulaan Tsutgalan Waterfalls provides a great, sparkling place for a dip. Just make sure to get there before it completely freezes in the winter!

@exposured on Instagram

Mongolia's landscape - from the titanic Tavan Bogd all the way to the colossal sand pit that is the Gobi - is intense. Like, Navy Seal workout intense, but more confusing because not a lot of people speak English here. Needless to say, the country takes quite the toll on seasoned and new travelers alike. In that case, time to head over to the hotel?

No no no :) ... if you're going to Mongolia, you gotta

a "ger," also known as a "yurt" in Russia and Central Asia

SLEEPOVER IN A GER

A ger is a portable home that's been a hallmark of Central Asian culture for over 3,000 years. To break it down, it's a round wooden tent held up by columns and covered in heavy felt blankets. This single room serves as every room - bed, dining, kitchen, and living. A stove in the middle keeps the chills away, with either a chimney and/or sky roof to top it all off. What I adore most is that often times, these cozy lodgings are fruitfully decorative - family history on the walls!

typical of an interior ger

90% of Mongolians outside of the capital, Ulaanbaatar City, currently live in gers. Still true nomads, 2-3+ times an year, the family will wrap everything up, toss all their belongings in the back of a pick-up truck, and move to the next location. Many travelers I've read about even partake in the migration, lending a helping hand to family, herdsman, and cattle.

Of course, you could always stay over in a tourist ger camp, but that strikes me as a sad compromise. Mongolia is the last place you want to dabble in artifice. Remarkably, it's not too hard to find a local family to settle down with. Countless blogs tell the same story - tour guide points out random ger, then insanely hospitable family takes you in! Are these the nicest people or what?

local Kazakh family in W. Mongolia

They are, so make sure you meet that level of respect by following ger etiquette. Some basic rules - walk through the space clockwise, elders sit in the back, women on the left, and men on the right. And don't forget, bring a gift! I'm super excited for this part.

My grandma, a devout Buddhist herself, practiced daana ("donation" or "gift") for as long as she lived. I hope to carry on the tradition - light bulbs, tools, stationary, toiletries, and plenty of presents for the kids. Just be as thoughtful as you can, especially because you're adding to what will eventually have to be transported. Therefore, these items ought to be kept either efficient or heartfelt.

Speaking of grandma, another one of her rules apply here - never, under any circumstances, refuse any food you're given. Of course, this brings up a good question.

family from Altai region

WATCHA EATING?

Mongolian cuisine is everything you'd expect - hearty, meaty, and fatty. A real filler-upper no doubt! Here are a few popular dishes to look out for:

from left to right: Khorkhog, Guriltai Shul, and Tsuivan

1. Khorkhog

Khorkhog (Xopxoг) is a barbecue dish made by cooking chunks of meat (i.e. mutton) in a pot with hot stones and water. Before eating, these stones are passed around and rubbed into your palms - pre-dinner hand warmers! This ritual is said to "increase stamina" before digging into this wholesome countryside meal (Artger 2015).

2. Guriltai Shul

Guriltai Shul (Гурилтай Шөл), or mutton soup, is prepared by cooking the fatty meat in a broth alongside freshly-cut noodles. Sometimes, the chef will add seasonal vegetables and acidic curds to cut the richness.

3. Tsuivan

Tsuivan (Цуйван) uses an interesting method - first the noodles are fried, then steamed. Add in some meat (pork, beef, or mutton in the form of ribs/intestines/fat), plus a basic mirepoix of onions, carrots, and cabbage - and, voila! These soft noodles still retain a bite in this unctuous melody of classic Mongolian flavors.

top to bottom/left to right: Buuz, Khuushuur, Boortsog, and Airag

4. Buuz

Buuz (Бууз) is a popular Lunar New Year dish that's a favorite of many locals young and old. It's basically a steamed dumpling filled with minced mutton or beef. Sometimes, they'll pack in potato, cabbage, and innards as well. Families will even host "buuz eating competitions" which you could totally partake in (Artger 2015)! Just how much buuz can your belly handle?

5. Khuushuur

Khuushuur (Хуушуур) is similar to buuz, but differs in shape and cooking method. Minced meet is stuffed into a flatter, round pancake-like pocket or half-moon pocket, then fried. The result is crispy, bubbled up pastry with juicy meat inside. My mouth's watering just thinking of it.

6. Boortsog

On to dessert! Boortsog (боорцог) is made by frying buttery, risen dough. This "biscuit" is essentially a Mongolian donut. Traditionally, the dough is twisted before being fried in mutton fat, which I imagine lends an interesting flavor. Sometimes, hot boortsog is served with an extra dash of sugar, jam, honey, butter, or yogurt.

7. Airag

Airag (Айраг) is fermented horse milk. Please keep reading. This "national drink" has an alcohol level of about 7%, and is often poured up on weddings, festivals, etc. Supposedly, the milk can decrease pathogens in the body, and joke has it that you can tell how good a family's children are by the quality of their airag, for the kids are usually in charge of maintaining the pouches as they ferment.

If airag doesn't hit the spot, you could always reach for a cup of suutei tsai (salty milk tea made with matcha powder), or tsatsargana (immune-boosting seabuckthorn juice)!

Admittedly, a lot of these dishes are outside my comfort zone, but I’m sure there’ll be an unprecedented level of flavor that takes over when dining with a local family. I mean, what ingredient could be better than love, especially towards a complete stranger?

Now that your earthly hunger has been satisfied, it's time to level up.

Tsam, a traditional Mongolian Buddhist dancing ceremony

VISIT A MONASTERY

Though we've already touched upon Aryapala Temple, there are a few more holy sites worth stopping by, especially when you consider the country's rocky history with Buddhism.

Approximately 60% of Mongolians today are Buddhist. The religion seeped into the country centuries ago, taking after the Tibetan Vajrayana Sect. The leading divinity worshipped is Chenrezig, also known as Avalokisteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion. Delaying his own buddhahood, his purpose is to first free every conscious being from duka, or suffering. It is he who inspires the chant from earlier, "Ong Mani Ba Mai."

Chenrezig

Now, fast forward to the 1930s, and the rise of the Communist Mongolian People's Republic. In an effort to modernize the country, the party went on a persecution spree.

According to historian Robert Rupen, during the 20s there were well over 112,000 lamas (monks) in the country - roughly 13% of the entire population. By the 40s, "nearly every monk was either dead or had apostatized" (Jerryson 2007).

It was only after the 1990 overthrow of communism that these original monasteries finally remerged, and with them, new schools of lamas.

Needless to say, these temples have endured unimaginable terror. Visiting a few, and perhaps listening to any stories their inhabitants may offer, would make for a meaningful experience. There's several scattered across the country to choose from - Ongi, Manjushri, Shankh, etc - but here are the 2 that I dream of seeing one day:

Erdene Zuu Monastery in Övörkhangai Province

1. Erdene Zuu

Erdene Zuu is the oldest Buddhist monastery in Mongolia. The official establishment claim is 1585, though rumors say it might date as far back as the 8th century. The name itself means "100 treasures," in reference to the original 100 stupas and temples that once surrounded the site.

In the 30s Khorloogiin Choibalsan, Communist leader of Mongolia, ordered the destruction of this temple and slaughtered thousands of its monks. All that eventually remained were 3 surrounding temples, and a small order of lamas. Stalin would then spare this remainder as a "token of religious tolerance," aka display for international visitors. Even then, the monastery only operated as museum.

Finally, in the 90s, Erdene Zuu was restored and given back to the lamas. As of now, its stupas are in a good state of repair.

it's especially gorgeous in the winter

Certainly, a little more humble than our next stop -

Gandan Monastery in Ulaanbaatar

2. Gandan Monastery

Gandan is short for Gandantegchinlen, a Tibetan name that translates to "Great Palace of Complete Joy." Just step inside to see what they're talking about.

Guess who? Chenrezig!

This temple is another one of many that was restored after the fall of the Soviets. When it was being rebuilt in 1996, the locals poured together donations to build a 26.5 M high statue of Chenrezig. Fun fact - the giant is adorned with gold leaf and 2,286 precious stones.

Question time: have you ever wanted to ask a monk a burning inquiry such as... "how are you?" My grandpa was an ex-monk, but I never got the opportunity to speak to him. Though I don't have any specific questions that come straight to the tip of my tongue, I know in the back of my mind there's probably hundreds. This would be the case with the Mongolian lamas too, whom I do plan to take out this 'grandfather complex' on. 😌 A "walk in the park" sort of talk with one would be quite... what's the word? Replenishing.

Especially after all that horseback. And the scorching sands. Not to mention the flying goats. Though for now, we'll have to trade peace for parties:

FESTIVALS!!

I swear, I wish I could celebrate every holiday on Earth. The following festivals are some of the reasons I want to stay put all year round. So much-a Mongolia, so little time-a!

1. Naadam (July)

Naadam Festival in Ulaanbaatar

Naadam is a centuries old celebration that's basically the Mongolian Olympics. Many naadamers equate this festival of "National Pride" to independence day. Locals look forward to the ripe summer especially for this magnificent show of nomadic culture, the biggest display taking place in Ulaanbaatar. Of course, many of the aimags (provinces), hold their own authentic mini-Naadams during the season.

The danshig, or main events, are referred to as the "Three Games of Men": horse racing, wrestling, and archery.

bullseye!

But it doesn't end there! Naadam also features parades with cavalry, monks, and athletes; as well as performing arts like traditional opera and dance.

If you thought that was a fierce display of heritage, just wait a few months for -

Golden Eagle Festival in Bayan-Ölgii Province

2. Golden Eagle Festival (October)

Every autumn, Kazakh families in Western Mongolia get together to celebrate the beautiful relationship between man and golden eagle! These birds measure up to a wingspan of 8 ft, weighing an average of 15 lbs. They dive at a max of 200 mph, and can clobber large mammals several times its size.

Burkitshi, or eagle hunters, demonstrate the birds' skills through a series of tricks. The goal of the game is to help them catch small animals (i.e. foxes and bunnies). The best part is, anyone can partake! The 20th anniversary of the Golden Eagle Festival last year hosted 124 competitors, "The oldest an 82-year-old man, the youngest a 10-year-old girl" (Cohen 2020).

But if you're still looking for something cooler - not actually cooler, but physically, stick around until the first week of March:

Lake Khövsgöl turns into a winter wonderland

3. Lake Khövsgöl Ice Festival (March)

The "Blue Pearl" of Mongolia completely freezes over by winter, with ice up to 6 ft deep. The entire area is about the same size as Yosemite, which funny enough, happens to be its sister park.

Lake Khövsgöl National Park

The event is arranged by the Tsaatan Tribe, the last reindeer herders in the world. They make for great hosts, making sure there's plenty to do. *Ahem* you can: ride a horse sleigh, ride a reindeer, dog sled, skate, step up for some ice sumo, or play a very slippery game of tug'o'war. Of course, don't miss out on all the photo-ops.

credit: Celine Jentzsch

And make sure to snap a shot of the ice sculptures!

credit: Celine Jentzsch

If you grew up in a warmer climate like me, I think this ice festival is the perfect way to make up for all those snowless Christmases.

Well, what do you know, Mongolia actually has a ton up its sleeve! Like anyone who's ever been will stress, the reason why it's not on your radar has nothing to do with the country itself. Frankly, I don't think it ought to be considered "niche" at all. If you want to see this planet for the wild beauty it's actually worth, Mongolia is a must.

Now, Will I Actually Come Back?

Mentally, I've been in Mongolia for this past week. The tiniest stress, and my mind will flash postcard after postcard of pastoral peace. It's all become so strangely obvious - for as long as I can remember, just like Daiqing Tana's siren-like singing, Mongolia has been calling.

"You'll never survive." My sweet little mother has also been taunting me this entire time. "You're gonna call me, asking to pick you up!"

She's probably right, guys. For a girl who's never been outside her hometown, going to Mongolia would be like going to the moon. And keep in mind, Momma Polo's criticism comes from a true place - my mother practically grew up in a jungle, and I get scared whenever I see a hair wad that looks like a spider.

But still. As soon as travel restrictions are lifted, my penny jar will be back up and running. If you're a scaredy-cat like me, that's all the more reason to venture out solo. I just get this gut feeling that if you haven't seen the world, you haven't seen yourself.

I know that was a pretty scrolling itinerary, but at the end of the day, my wish is simple: I want to go out to a remote steppe, lie down, and stare up at the sky. Maybe, I'll finally learn what Ong Mani Ba Mai means for real. Though, wherever these feet take me, I'll surely be chewing over the last half of that Haya song, which goes something like:

The heart is infinite

It can contain the entire universe

A dust particle in the cosmos

Would vanish in a mere second.

bye

FOOTNOTES

¹Qinghai Lake is not located in Mongolia, but is in the Tibetan Plateau

² Always remember your dinocestors.

SOURCES

10 Weird and Wonderful Facts about Mongolia. (2020, September 23). Retrieved December 04, 2020, from https://www.intrepidtravel.com/adventures/mongolia-facts/

Cohen, B. (2020, March 31). How an Eagle Festival Is Changing Tourism in Mongolia. Retrieved December 03, 2020, from https://www.afar.com/magazine/at-mongolias-golden-eagle-festival-tourism-meets-tradition

Fathom. (2016, September 04). Traveling Mongolia Is Easier Than You Think. Retrieved December 03, 2020, from https://www.forbes.com/sites/fathom/2016/09/03/mongolia-travel-guide/?sh=2ec5cc433e32

Gorkhi-Terelj National Park: Mongolia Attractions. (2020, March 27). Retrieved December 03, 2020, from https://www.lonelyplanet.com/mongolia/central-mongolia/terelj-area/attractions/gorkhi-terelj-national-park/a/poi-sig/1477499/357024

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About the Creator

Angalee Fernando

"I'm an average nobody" - Henry Hill, and my heart

☎️ @kirikidding

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