Aachen, Germany: A Travel Guide

The small German city of Aachen hasn’t necessarily captured the imagination of travellers, but by train it's incredibly accessible and the kind of destination that makes an interesting day-trip whichever direction you are travelling across Europe's vast rail network.

Here's why:

It’s Easy to Get to

I travelled from London – taking the Eurostar from St Pancras to Brussels, and then changing on to a Thalys train to Aachen. The whole trip took about four hours from the centre of London to the centre of Aachen — no endless hanging around airports and you can take as much luggage as you can carry.

The History

Aachen is Germany’s westernmost city — close to the borders of Belgium and the Netherlands. It was as a Roman spa town that Aachen first came to prominence, but even after the withdrawal of the Romans, Aachen remained a city of regional importance — initially as a centre of power for the empire of the Franks, and thereafter as an important trading city throughout the Middle Ages.

Historically, Aachen was the city where the coronation of the kings of Germany took place. It's in Aachen where you'll find the grave of Charlemagne (who died in the year 814) — the Frankish king who united most of Western Europe for the first time since the collapse of the Roman Empire.

The narrow, cobbled streets of the centre of the old town surrounding the cathedral and the town hall easily transport you back in time, back to the Middle Ages, back to the days of the Franks when the kings of Germany came here to claim their crown.

Surviving World War II

During the extended conflict of World War II, the city of Aachen was severely damaged. The US infantry lay siege to Aachen for a prolonged period, before the city became the first German city to fall to the Allied armies. Much of the city was destroyed, but the ancient cathedral and the almost Gothic town hall remain standing.

Aachen today

What strikes you about Aachen is that it's an incredibly liveable city, modern, industrious, extensive retail options, and attractive restaurants and bars.

There’s no denying that Aachen doesn’t really have major landmarks or stunning tourist attractions that will have the crowds swarming in, but it is an attractive city that gives an easy glimpse into modern German life.

The Shopping

As most of the city had to be rebuilt following the devastation of World War II, it now feels a very modern and dynamic place to live. This is the kind of city you could easily come to for a fun weekend of shopping — all the high street brands are here, and somehow shopping is more fun when it’s done in a foreign language.

The Food and Drink

Germany is not a place to go for light, healthy, eating. They seem to like hearty fare washed down with beer — my favourites were the local Bitburger and Gaffel, both blond beers with light flavours but somehow the perfect accompaniment for my veal schnitzel in a basement restaurant somewhere in the middle of the old town.

I liked Aachen’s bakeries too — lots of different sorts of pastries, so different from the delicate refinement of French patisserie, the Germans seem to value lots of sugar and strong flavours over everything else. I started my day with a Berliner donut — sugar coated and filled with apricot jam, not the healthiest way to start the day but undeniably delicious.

Where to stay

On my visit I stayed at the Hotel Novotel Aachen City: This is a reliable brand, although this property doesn’t look particularly inspiring from the outside, it was actually a surprisingly good option — an easy walk from the train station, this is a modern hotel with functional rooms, wifi, not expensive, and walking distance to everything you need to do in Aachen. I’d happily go back there.

Where to drink

Egmont: A cool, relaxed bar, popular with locals. The Bitburger beer had a nice chewy flavour.

Where to eat

Lasaro restaurant: I was unable to resist a stonking big veal schnitzel.

Nobis bakery: In the heart of the old town — this is the place to devour sugary donuts filled with apricot jam.