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The Effects of Political Fashion

Fashion

By Jade RowePublished 6 years ago 6 min read
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Image retrieved from Vogue.com

Over the years, fashion has become more of a way people define themselves as opposed to practicality. If your outfit is more on the colorful and/or ornate side, you’re considered a “bold” individual, “outgoing,” and vice versa. Using that concept to their advantage, fashion designers have started incorporating various slogans into their clothing that stem beyond the menial “Today is gonna be awesome!” Phrases such as “The future is female,” “Make America New York Again,” and “This is what a feminist looks like” were seen on the models (genders aside) gracing the runway at New York Fashion Week earlier this year. Although this concept seems relatively recent, political fashion has existed for many years in various forms, just not as openly, or as accepted.

One of the most high profile examples of earlier political fashion is the outfit Janet Jackson wore to the 1995 Video Music Awards, in pictures she can be seen sporting (what seems to be) a simple white cropped shirt paired with black pants, that is until she turned around, the statement “Pervert 2” gleamed on her back. “It was especially controversial due to the fact that her brother Michael Jackson was facing unjustified allegations of child molesting" (Lavish Rebellion). “Reportedly, Janet was wearing the baseball designed tee as a sign of irreverent support against the claims" (Lavish Rebellion). The statement got people talking, which, as a designer or celebrity, is the ultimate goal.

The rise of political fashion could also signify that “times are changing.” Fashion continues to evolve as the world around it does, and many are beginning to recognize that, although glamorous, the fashion community is not without its faults.

As fashion week commenced in early February 2018, so did multiple accusations of animal cruelty and cultural appropriation. During this time, well-known designer Marc Jacobs was accused of animal cruelty by means of using fur in his collections. “After the show, while a gaggle of protesters outside held signs and chanted about Jacobs' use of fur, guests Cardi B and Lil Kim posed glamorously inside for fans and photographers" (Chicago Tribune). It seems that despite not being directly political oftentimes “regular” fashion can unintentionally stir up politics.

According to the Cambridge Dictionary, cultural appropriation is defined as, "the act of taking or using things from a culture that is not your own, especially without showing that you understand or respect this culture." Over the years, multiple designers have been accused of appropriating various cultures and customs. In 2017, models dawning colorful dreadlocks walked the runway for Marc Jacobs. Although one may see the locs as aesthetically pleasing or as a form of artistic expression, some may see the use of Caucasian models as a form of dissociating the hair from its cultural and religious significance. The originators of dreadlocks are virtually impossible to pinpoint (due to geographical and historical circumstances) however, “the actual term 'dreadlock' comes from the Rastafarian culture, which is widely credited with popularizing the look in Western culture. Rastafarians consider the locs a sign of their African identity and a religious vow of their separation from what they call Babylon, a historically white-European imperialist structure that has oppressed blacks and other people of color" (CNN). Due to those circumstances, it is easy to see why this particular fashion statement offended many.

Presently, cultural appropriation continues to be a problem in fashion. It seems, however, that it is becoming increasingly difficult to distinguish what is cultural appropriation from what is not. During Milan fashion week in September, Gucci was accused of cultural appropriation after multiple models graced the runway wearing turbans. This posed a problem, as the models were again mostly Caucasian, but more so that they were not of the Sikh faith.

According to Sikhnet,

“Sikhism is monotheistic and stresses the equality of all men and women. Sikhs believe in three basic principles; meditating on the name of God (praying), earning a living by honest means as well as sharing the fruits of one’s labor with others. Sikhism rejects caste and class systems and emphasizes service to humanity."

The turban itself has great significance in the Sikh religion. “For a Sikh, the dastaar (Sikh turban) is a religious requirement by the Guru’s own injunction. Dastaar is an essential article of faith for male Sikhs, about that there should be no misunderstanding: men must wear it, while it is optional for women" (Sikhnet). This situation is another example of removing the religious or cultural significance from a specific object or custom for aesthetically pleasing purposes. Although most cultural appropriation in recent history involves mixing religious wear with high fashion, some people believe that there is a point where the accusations become invalid.

A few weeks ago, the highly acclaimed Metropolitan Museum of Art had its annual Met Gala. Each year the Gala is held to celebrate art in all its forms while also taking on a specific theme for each year. This year theme was initially described as "Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination." The guests of the Gala are encouraged to honor it by dressing in various ways that embody the theme. Shortly after the stars hit the red carpet, online spectators began to condemn the stars for what they considered to be cultural appropriation, or in broader terms, a blatant act of disrespect toward the Catholic faith and church.

A prime example being the outfit of singer and actress Rihanna. Wearing an outfit inspired by the Pope, Rihanna gleamed on the red carpet. However, it wasn't long until the internet came for her look. Many accused the singer of devaluing the significance of the Pope title. “In a towering Papal mitre, Rihanna brought attention to Catholic practices that preclude women from holding the title of Pope." (Teen Vogue). Despite this, it was later revealed that she, in fact, received a portion of her outfit from the archbishop of New York. So where exactly does that leave us? If a facet of the church says it's okay, is it? When looking at the bigger picture, in retrospect, there will never be a definite answer to who is truly right or wrong. In the end, we may just have to accept that the issue of cultural appropriation is one that is long-standing or possibly infinite.

Today's political fashion is often seen as radical or shocking, and for many people, the question of “Why?” comes to mind. Why are so many designers, people, etc. choosing now to say something? Why is it important? When you think about it, the plethora of political fashion this year makes sense. We are arguably in the midst of a very interesting presidency, and everyone has something to say. Whether in the form of tweets or articles, everyone's opinions are being voiced openly and (sometimes) without regret. This sort of “no-filter” policy allows for regular accusations and condemnation. While it is important to acknowledge wrongdoings, it is equally as important to create for sort of balance. Condemnation without education leaves many with the idea that they are wrong while also baffling them as to why.

In more modern terms, one is not born “woke;” “wokeness” is something that is carefully taught through self-research or through one's willingness to open their mind to new ideas and concepts. Akin to global peace, we patiently wait with bated breath for the, “world to get woke.” Let's hope we aren't wasting our time.

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