METRO NEOMATIK 41 UPDATE

The Metro neomatik 41 Update was unveiled by NOMOS Glashütte earlier this year. It shares many characteristics with the brand’s Tangente neomatik 41 Update. However, the newer watch incorporates many of the design codes found on earlier Metro models, all of which have been styled by Mark Braun. Angus Davies looks closely at the composition of this latest addition to the Metro family, paying particular attention to the model’s design.

Introduction – Caliber DUW 6101

In 2018, Nomos Glashütte unveiled a new in-house movement, the Caliber DUW 6101. It has since gone on to prove a resounding success and is now employed in several of the brand’s models

The Caliber DUW 6101 measures just 3.6mm in height and features a date ring positioned towards its outside edge. The date mechanism allows the wearer to adjust the date by turning the crown in either direction, safe in the knowledge that the movement will suffer no harm. Initially, the movement was housed in three models, each blessed with its own distinctive appearance. This horological trio included the Ludwig neomatik 41 date, the Autobahn neomatik 41 date and the Tangente neomatik 41 Update. I will return to the last watch in due course.

Nomos Glashütte has always shown a strong desire to be independent, manifest with the making of its own movements. Furthermore, in 2014, the firm unveiled its own ‘swing system’, a term used to describe the escapement and regulating organ. This represented a huge undertaking, a task most brands choose to outsource to industry specialists. However, Nomos Glashütte, in collaboration with the Technical University of Dresden, embarked on this journey, eager to augment its independence. Several million Euros later, the ‘swing system’ was unveiled to the world and has since been employed throughout the brand’s caliber range.

Keen to make the Caliber DUW 6101 as slender as possible, Nomos Glashütte looked closely at the various movement components, in particular the gear train. Comprised of several wheels, the gear train transfers energy from the spring barrel to the escapement. Most gear trains are not very efficient. Indeed, the industry average is approximately 80% efficiency. In order to compensate for this loss of power, the norm is to equip the movement with a larger barrel, however, this makes the movement bigger. Nomos Glashütte expended much effort looking at the order, angle and number of teeth on each wheel of the gear train, eager to improve its efficiency. The favourable consequence of its endeavours culminated in a gear train efficiency of 94.2%, allowing the brand to fit a smaller barrel and, by default, reduce the height of the movement.

The Caliber DUW 6101 is also a self-winding movement, a characteristic that makes the watch ideal for daily wear. The mainspring within the spring barrel is energised by harnessing power from the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist. The system features an oscillating weight that rotates clockwise and counter clockwise, thereby tensioning the mainspring within the barrel.

Most of the mass needed to make the oscillating weight rotate has to be positioned along its outer edge in order to create inertia, making the rotor bulkier at this point. Nomos Glashütte has placed the bulkiest part of the oscillating weight in a ‘trottoir’, a channel that runs around the edge of the movement. By adopting this approach, the depth of the movement is mitigated, again contributing to the overall slenderness of the watch.

The brand from Saxony has also endowed the Caliber DUW 6101 with various additional refinements. Unlike many Swiss movements which are fitted with numerous bridges and cocks, the Caliber DUW 6101 is fitted with a three-quarter plate. This feature is typical of watches made in Saxony. By using one large plate, the movement construction is more stable. In this instance, the three-quarter plate is embellished with a striped decoration termed ‘Glashütte ribbing’. The balance bridge is secured with two screws, again improving stability. There is a profusion of thermally blued screws, typical of fine watchmaking practise and the mainplate is adorned with perlage.

The balance has a frequency of 21,600 vph and the movement is fitted with 27 jewels. Assuming the mainspring is fully-wound, the Caliber DUW 6101 will run autonomously for up to 42 hours.

Tangente neomatik 41 Update

As stated previously, the Caliber DUW 6101 first appeared in the Ludwig neomatik 41 date, the Autobahn neomatik 41 date and the Tangente neomatik 41 Update. Given the date ring is positioned very close to the edge of the movement, the numerals can be made larger, enhancing readability as is the case with the Ludwig and Autobahn models.

However, the Tangente neomatik 41 Update eschews a conventional date display. Indeed, the dial on this model features 31 rectangular apertures with a disc positioned beneath and marked with vibrant red visible via two rectangles. The two brightly coloured rectangles straddle the prevailing date, imparting meaning in an intelligible format. This distinctive indication, the ‘NOMOS ring date’, is patented and contributes to the model’s eye-catching mien.

The inaugural version of the Tangente neomatik 41 Update was endowed with a white silver-plated dial with soupçons of ebullient red adorning the date ring. The model remains a popular member of the brand’s current collection, however, it has since been joined by two additional references. One model features a ruthenium treated dial, again paired with two red date markers. More recently, the German marque unveiled a further variant encompassing new hues. In this instance, the dial is dressed in ‘Midnight Blue’ and supplants the red date markers, found on its sister models, with two green rectangles. Personally, I prefer the initial version, however, I certainly have no aversion to the notion of choice.

Since its inception, Nomos has always had a remarkable talent for design. The Tangente neomatik 41 Update serves to reinforce this reputation. Indeed, the watch won the ‘Challenge Watch Prize’ at the GPHG in 2018 and it has also been the recipient of an iF Design Award and a European Product Design Award.

The Tangente, arguably the brand’s most iconic design, has always conveyed information with notable efficiency. Indeed, the dial of a Tangente expresses meaning in a clear and simple to interpret form. Supremely slender hands point to the hour and minute tracks with laser-like accuracy. The hour markers comprise slim batons for the odd-numbered hours and Arabic numerals for the even-numbered values. These latter numerals are depicted in a unique font conceived by Berlinerblau, the Berlin-based agency for NOMOS Glashütte, where design is a way of life and creativity is omnipresent.

In common with other Tangente models, the round case of the neomatik 41 Update version is juxtaposed with straight perpendicular sides. It is the repeated collocation of curves and straight lines which contributes to the model’s eye-catching aesthetic appearance. The lugs feature a combination of horizontal, angled and vertical lines. Moreover, the lugs have a narrow profile imbuing them with a refined appearance. When affixed to the wrist, the watch sits close to the skin and limbo dances beneath the cuff of a shirt courtesy of its modest case height of just 7.8mm.

Measuring 40.5mm in diameter, the watch feels a smidgen wider than the stated dimensions would suggest. This is because the slender lugs are slightly elongated, making the watch ‘wear larger’.

Blending satin-brushed and polished surfaces often endows a case with tasteful contrast. However, the Tangente neomatik 41 Update employs highly polished surfaces throughout. When I wore this model, I was somewhat surprised as such overt and ubiquitous gleaming can appear a tad garish. However, no such vulgarity afflicts this model, it is a paragon of good taste and elegance.

The Metro model – an external viewpoint

In 2014, Nomos Glashütte unveiled a wholly new watch, the Metro Date Power Reserve. Interestingly, the German firm looked beyond the confines of its Berlin design studios and appointed Mark Braun, an external designer, to help style this new timepiece.

Braun’s body of work is vast and varied. His portfolio includes furniture designs, fountain pens, glassware, jewellery, cutlery and much more. In addition, Braun is a professor in Saarbrücken and the recipient of numerous design awards.

Over the years, I have interviewed several watch designers and have always found them to be fascinating individuals. They seem to have a heightened appreciation for proportions, shapes, textures and light that can’t be learnt purely within the confines of a classroom. Indeed, it is my belief that great designers have an innate talent from a young age that can be honed but never created.

Having appraised many watches, the first Metro model was like a breath of fresh air. Braun’s website would suggest that prior to his relationship with Nomos Glashütte he had not designed many watches. Personally, I view this as a strength because his work did not seem constrained by industry convention. For example, the power-reserve indicator is circular, sidestepping the customary lone-hand and scale combination. The display blends white, red and mint green tones to convey the status of the mainspring. Eminently logical, yet wonderfully original.

Furthermore, the hour and minute hands are not dauphine-style, Breguet-style or baton-type. On the contrary, Braun’s hands are highly original. Slender near the fulcrum of the dial, of uniform width for two-thirds of their length, they then assume a needle-like appearance for the last few millimetres. They are wonderfully stylish but notably readable. Indeed, Braun’s work is not limited to the prepossessing appearance of a product but also encompasses practicality too.

The hours on the Metro model shun the usual Arabic numerals or large batons typically used on watches, just simple dots say it all. Cleverly, the dots encompass mint green and black hues, distinguishing the hours at the cardinal points from those values positioned in between.

There are several Braun touches which I will return to later, save to say his first design was widely recognised for its brilliance. The Metro Date Power Reserve is the recipient of numerous awards, including a Goldene Unruh, an iF Design Award, a German Design Award, a Red Dot, a Good Design and a Green Product Award.

Mark Braun was subsequently tasked with designing further Metro models. To date, he has designed 14 different versions of Metro, including the latest addition to the collection, Metro neomatik 41 Update.

Metro neomatik 41 Update

One glance at Metro neomatik 41 Update from NOMOS Glashütte and the Metro DNA is clear to see. On the other hand, the dial shares some details in common with the aforementioned Tangente neomatik 41 Update. I suspect this was a tough brief for Braun. On one hand, the resultant watch needed to accommodate the patented date ring but, on the other hand, it still had to look like a Metro.

Recently, I reviewed Metro neomatik 41 Update and waxed lyrical about its design as well as its mechanical attributes. However, in this instance, I want to dissect Braun’s design and the model’s habillage (every element of the watch except for the movement).

The date ring, with its patented 31-aperture design and two rectangular shaped dashes of colour, perpetuates the look of the Tangente neomatik 41 Update, albeit in this instance the watch firm has chosen splashes of ‘neon orange’. Likewise, the case of the Metro neomatik 41 Update is highly polished, again, similar to the Tangente. Where the small seconds dial is smooth on the Tangente, the indication on the Metro is snailed.

Once again, Braun has used his distinctive hour and minute hands, a style unique to Metro. The hours are denoted with dots, however, they are now grey throughout. The German designer has differentiated the hours at the cardinal points by making the dots larger.

In common with all Metro models, the sapphire crystal gently arcs above the dial. This creates a wonderful three-dimensional appearance to the display, masterfully playing with depths and endowing the dial with a sublime reciprocity with light.

The fabric strap is affixed to the case with wire-like loop attachments. However, do not misconstrue, the attachments are strong and conjoined with the case in steadfast union. In common with the Tangente neomatik 41 Update, the watch is equipped with an exhibition caseback. The case is slightly deeper than the Tangente, measuring 9.1mm, but compared with most watches it remains slim.

The crown of the Metro neomatik 41 Update features a series of hemispherical dots on its surface, affording grip. Most watch brands favour a fluted design, hence Braun’s approach is refreshingly different. The Metro’s crown is functional, attractive and bestows a wonderful tactility. In my opinion, it is because Braun has not spent years solely designing wristwatches that he brings a freshness to the design process. The crown may be a small detail, but it perfectly illustrates Braun’s painstaking attention to detail.