MAURICE LACROIX AIKON AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH TITANIUM

One of the joys of purchasing a new car is deciding on its specification. Personally, I derive much pleasure using a car marque’s web-based configuration tool. Beyond choosing the colour of the exterior paint and leather interior, there is a long list of options to consider. Initially, there is a temptation to select everything on offer, however, after all the potential costs have been aggregated, a moment of realisation comes to the fore: the chosen options would add a further 50% to the sale cost! The frustrated buyer then has to deselect options. The 1000W Hi-Fi system is struck from the inventory, the 22″ alloy wheels with low profile tyres deleted forever, the glorious panoramic glass with solar cooling and numerous other sumptuous delights, all deselected and resigned to memory. Quite simply, cost often curtails the notion of choice.

However, in the world of luxury watchmaking, Maurice Lacroix has repeatedly delivered both impressive features and discernible quality for comparatively affordable prices. For example, I recently enjoyed a week-long ‘hands-on’ experience with the Maurice Lacroix AIKON Automatic Chronograph Titanium. Several details on this watch would suggest it costs north of €6000 and yet it retails for €3,950 including VAT (RRP as at 31.10.2021). Allow me to guide you through the composition of this timepiece, pointing out the costly details that come as standard.

The dial

The dial is presented in gunmetal grey and adorned with an embossed motif comprising numerous squares. Baton-style hour and minute hands, lined with luminescent material, converse with applied faceted batons. Three counters populate the dial: a 30-minute chronograph register (12 o’clock), a 12-hour chronograph register (6 o’clock) and a small seconds display at 9 o’clock. Each counter is snailed, recessed and framed with a gleaming, bevelled circlet.

Adjacent to the crown are two apertures, one revealing the day display and a second proclaiming the date. Most text on the dial is printed, but the brand’s M logo is applied and polished to a sparkling conclusion. A minute track encircles the perimeter of the dial and features a combination of Arabic numerals and legible strokes. Interestingly, Maurice Lacroix has positioned the minute track on a lower level, masterfully playing with depths. The Swiss brand has also endowed the dial with a variety of interesting textures. However, despite the numerous stylish details in evidence, nothing inhibits readability.

Making a watch case

Watch cases are often made of stainless steel. Simple shapes are generally formed by stamping metal using huge pressures. In some instances, the steel is stamped, tempered, stamped, etc on a repeated basis. The tempering process prevents the steel from becoming brittle.

The case of the Maurice Lacroix AIKON Automatic Chronograph Titanium is made of Grade 5 titanium. This material cannot be stamped, hence it needs to be milled using CNC, transforming a block of alloy into a case. To achieve the desired shape using this process takes a long time and proves far more expensive than stamping.

When milling Grade 5 titanium, the alloy generates much heat which can harm the metal, potentially cause a fire or machine tools to wear out prematurely. In some extreme cases, processing Grade 5 titanium can even cause harm to the CNC machines.

To mitigate the above risks, milling speeds are reduced to prevent damage to the alloy, tools and machines. Moreover, CNC machines are never left unattended when working on Grade 5 titanium parts because of the heightened risk of fire. The protracted processing times associated with this alloy, as well as the high wear rate of tools, significantly increase production costs, a factor which is inevitably reflected in a model’s retail price.

Grade 5 Titanium

Grade 5 titanium is an alloy of titanium (approximately 90%), aluminium (6%), vanadium (4%) and small amounts of iron and oxygen. It is very strong, light, corrosion-resistant, unaffected by magnetic fields, hypoallergenic and it can be polished.

The case – The Maurice Lacroix AIKON Automatic Chronograph Titanium

The Maurice Lacroix AIKON Automatic Chronograph Titanium is housed in a 44mm Grade 5 titanium case. While this may sound a tad large, the watch does not feel unduly cumbersome when affixed to the wrist. When viewed from the side the bracelet does not project outwards from the watch head but seems to freefall downwards, readily encircling the wrist. Certainly, having had the watch in my possession over a number of days, I can attest it is incredibly comfortable to wear.

Although Grade 5 titanium is light, the watch still has a reassuring heft. It is certainly lighter than its stainless steel alternatives, but it doesn’t feel flimsy or malnourished. In my opinion, the Swiss marque has judged the composition to perfection.

During the 1990s, Maurice Lacroix produced the Calypso, a very popular model. The first examples of the AIKON were released in 2016 and were effectively modern reinterpretations of the former Calypso references. One of the design elements carried over from the 90s icon is undoubtedly the six arms spanning the bezel. While the upper surface of the bezel is presented in a satin finish, the six arms are polished to a brilliant gleam. A reoccurring theme on the Maurice Lacroix AIKON Automatic Chronograph Titanium is this juxtaposing of contrasting finishes. This design aspect delivers an abundance of eye-appeal. However, whenever two contrasting finishes are placed in close proximity, it necessitates much skill and time to realise, inevitably heightening cost. Needless to say, it is yet another feature usually the preserve of premium watches.

Maurice Lacroix has endowed this chronograph with screw-down pushpieces, a detail much loved by horophiles. Rotating the screw-down pushpieces confers a cathartic experience. Indeed, throughout this horological composition, the wearer is indulged with numerous smile-inducing moments.

The 5-rows titanium bracelet is endued with a satin finish and fitted with a butterfly buckle. However, the pièce de résistance is undoubtedly the Easy Strap Exchange system. Four M-branded catches, two positioned on each side of the watch head, secure the bracelet in position. Squeeze the catches together and the bracelet comes away from the watch head. No tools or training are required. The wearer can select an alternative leather strap (not included), thereby easily changing the appearance of their cherished icon.

The movement

An exhibition caseback affords views of the self-winding chronograph movement, the calibre ML112, which sits at the heart of this AIKON model. It is equipped with an index-regulated balance and has a frequency of 28,800 VpH (4Hz). The movement features 25 jewels and, assuming the watch is fully wound, will run autonomously for 48 hours.

The movement is attractively appointed with various types of finishing, including circular graining (perlage) and vertical Côtes de Genève motif on the rotor and bridges.

Closing remarks

The Maurice Lacroix AIKON Automatic Chronograph Titanium features a highly legible dial, a sublime play with heights and textures, a sophisticated blend of surface finishes and a robust chronograph movement.

Undoubtedly, the model’s housing, made from Grade 5 titanium, is an incredible point of difference, especially considering the model’s comparatively modest asking price. Grade 5 titanium is hypoallergenic and notably light, however, it doesn’t feel too light. There have been occasions when I have worn a titanium watch and it has felt devoid of value due to its puny physique. No such allegations could be directed towards this Swiss masterpiece.

Beyond its lightweight characteristics, the watch proves incredibly comfortable when affixed to the wrist. There was a welcome absence of wrist gouging, hair pulling or other forms of annoying behaviour which can easily mar the wearer experience. Indeed, I found this watch to be one of the most comfortable timepieces I have worn, irrespective of price.

Maurice Lacroix products don’t purport to be the last word in Haute Horlogerie, the modest pricing precludes this. However, the Swiss brand does have a remarkable talent for delivering both virtue and value, sometimes referred to as the ‘quality-price ratio’. Moreover, since the advent of the AIKON, the firm has, in my opinion, ascended to greater heights. The overall designs, the tasteful application of subtle detail and the incredibly keen pricing of its products make a compelling case for acquiring an M-branded watch.

As previously stated, the Maurice Lacroix AIKON Automatic Chronograph Titanium retails for €3,950 which represents remarkable value for money. Furthermore, unlike my ideal car, there is no need to deselect any attractive features, everything comes as standard.