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Fashion, Business or Art?

The case of Guo Pei 郭培

By Asterion AvocadoPublished 2 years ago 3 min read
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Guo Pei, who is she? Guo Pei, one of China's most well-known haute couture labels, is known across the world for crafting stunning, structured dresses.

She made a name for herself in China for decades, but it wasn't until her display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art that she became internationally recognised. A number of her works were on display at the NGV Triennial in 2018, and I had the pleasure of witnessing them in person. The beauty and skill displayed by each outfit drew me in right away. I went back a few of times.

Perhaps you've seen one of her most well-known outfits on the internet. Rihanna wore her design at the 2015 Met Gala, and it quickly became a viral sensation.

Fun fact: in an interview with the Wall Street Journal, Guo acknowledges that she was pleased with how the garment was received by social media users. She remembers being astounded by the ingenuity with which people associated the outfit with everything from food to Mount Doom's flames in Lord of the Rings.

Work and a brief bio

Guo was born in Beijing, China's capital, in 1967. Despite the relatively severe rules, she continued to study and graduated from Beijing Second Light Industry School with a degree in fashion design in 1986.

Guo Pei graduated at a good time, as Deng Xiaoping was putting in place post-Mao reforms. She was employed by one of China's first privately held garment firms not long after. She recalls being treated as little more than a seamstress at a period when gowns were both unknown and unwelcome in China. She did, however, fantasise about gowns, hand needlework, and giving Chinese workmanship a fresh lease of life. She didn't give up.

Photo by author

She created Rose Studio in 1997 and soon established herself as the go-to designer for China's elite, particularly those in the show industry.

The majority of Guo Pei's and her 500 workers' work is based on the notion of preserving Chinese customs and symbols. She's particularly fond of combining historical elements and employing a lot of hand stitching.

Craftmanship

People have a low opinion of Chinese art. Not everyone believes this, but many are swayed by the "made in China" mass-production image that has spread to anything of Chinese origin. This is a major blunder that might deprive us of the enjoyment of outstanding works of art or workmanship.

Guo Pei understands that Chinese artists are generally looked down upon, but he also understands that this is a misunderstanding and that Chinese tradition is something to be proud of. As a result, Chinese history, culture, and creative expression must be separated from the mega-production companies that cater to the global market.

If you were to ask me what I connect with Guo Pei's art, I'd answer transportation narrative grandiosity of historical-cultural debate.

There isn't much more to say about her outfits because the clothing itself tell the narrative. They will express the feelings that are there in them. They did for me, at least.

Guo Pei's name may easily be interpreted as a vehicle for the expression of history and culture, and goddamn, you can feel it all. I recall standing in front of the gowns and thinking to myself how statuesque, elegant, and alive these garments were. Isn't that what fashion is supposed to do? Rather than being the lifeless parts of chopped textures, being alive.

Guo Pei, on the other hand, has a knack for bringing emotions to life via tradition and expertise.

Sure, clothing can be a business. but good fashion is art. Hope you'll enjoy watching some of her collection runaways.

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About the Creator

Asterion Avocado

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