A Love Letter to Black Designers

A Love Letter to Black Designers

With the support of black stylists, artists and designers becoming an ever magnified topic I took the time out to explore some black designers who produce work both exciting and resonating. The craft of clothing design should aim to move, inspire - I believe the artists below engage with this in a way fluid throughout their work

Brother Vellies

Founded by Aurora James Brother Vellies stands as the antidote to fast fashion perspex heels. The Brother Vellies instagram feed hosts a collection of artfully snapped shots of their shoes placed casually in everyday settings. A curly haired Goddess stands defiantly atop a sofa (carrying a lamp) in her Brother Vellies heels, a dressing gown clad woman with a leg draped elegantly on an ironing board - a peek into the humorous and uber glamorous Brother Vellies Instagram aesthetic. With all products produced sustainably, Brother Vellies was founded with the aim to keep traditional African Design practices alive. With a base in New York City the pieces are produced across the globe.

Mowalola

Nigerian-British designer Mowalola Ogunlesi - Acid bright fabrics, ultra sexy cuts, printed leather. Each Mowalola piece an undeniable statement. Futuristic, Psychedelic black punk - Mowalola’s clothing are so individual they couldn’t be more modern. Mowalola clothing posses the ability to reach through the screen and permanently permeate your conscience - you find yourself daydreaming about wearing the pieces. Renewed. Afresh, Unapologetic.

Thebe Magugu

Former LVMH prize winner Thebe Magugu hails from Kimberley South Africa. The young designer describes his work as informed by South Africa. His eponymous label plays host to re-imagined suiting structures and soft pleating with print whispering subtly throughout his work . Thebe Magugu provides modern and easy to wear luxury fashion.

Nicholas Daley

A sensory textural experience - Nicholas Daley's play with fabric and obviously musically inspired designs are an exciting affair. Daley's SS20 menswear show entitled ‘Astro Black’ served up an impressive 1970’s influenced display - models strutted proudly down the runway carrying brass instruments, and layered utility wear served as a futuristic peephole into 2020/21 street style to come. Daley’s models exhibited a curated but casual style, with garments echoing his dual Scottish- Jamaican heritage.

Grace Wales Bonner

Wales Bonner’s garments feel charged - charged with commentary on identity politics and black history. With fashion dominated by primarily male designers Grace’s step into the space of initially creating menswear is an almost radical way of stamping her presence within the industry. Wales-Bonner, a generally enigmatic and private presence speaks boldly and firmly through her work, her pieces lay focus on sharp tailoring and interpret effortlessly her love of history.

Christopher John Rogers

Born in Louisiana Christopher John Rogers’ clothing are an explosion of volume and deafening colour. Ultra luxe and layered fabrics, John Rogers’ pieces echo an unapologetic 80’s toned glamour, they do not cower but instead take up space and demand attention. A young designer, Rogers has found fans in Rihanna and Tracee Ellis Ross. John Rogers serves up a varied offering, more subdued customers can look to his tailored suiting and more casual separates.

Mateo

Jamacian born Matthew Harris of Mateo moved to the US at the age of 16 to pursue an education in Hospitality. His label Mateo was originally founded to create male jewelry however journeyed into the realm of creating for women. His pieces are elegant and interchangeable, refined. Mateo’s site and instagram feature a pared back display of jewellery, women with cornrowed hair turn their bare necks to camera. Delicate anklets displayed on the naked body. Mateo speaks to a woman who knows herself and her style well, the brand inhabits the lane of simplicity and elegance in an era where many seek to please the masses and hop onto fast fashion trends. The brand offers a collection of similarly refined bags, the Mateo woman may streamline her look with bags and accessories which make way for an individual’s essence to step forth.

May black art continue to shine through 2020 and beyond.

Siobhan Sheppard