The Two Ideal Outer Banks, North Carolina

On Ocracoke Island, hundreds and miles of uninhabited coastline coexist with a charming village atmosphere.ently find it difficult to pick just one place in North Carolina to take guests. Do they yearn for whitewater kayaking, crisp mountain air, artisan beer, or hiking and biking? They go to places like Asheville and Blowing Rock in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Visit downtown Durham, Chapel Hill, or Pittsboro if you want modern, farm-to-table cuisine and a cool college town.

Then there are the picturesque coastal communities of North Carolina, from the Crystal Coast to the Outer Banks, which provide miles of sand beaches, waves that are good for surfing, and classic family entertainment (Putt-Putt! Go-Karts!).

Consider spending a week in summer, when the masses arrive, exploring North Carolina's inlet villages and hidden-gem outlet towns. For outdoor adventure, American history, fresh seafood, and Southern comfort food and beverages, each is perfect. With Ocracoke Island and New Bern, this itinerary combines the best of the Inner and Outer Banks.

Island of Ocracoke

Getting to Ocracoke

Ocracoke Island in the Outer Banks is unlike any other place. You can only get to the island by ferry, boat, or, if you have access to a small plane, via a public airfield open for takeoffs and landings during daylight hours.

Although private watercraft are permitted in Ocracoke's marinas, the bulk of tourists arrive there by ferry. (Several daily ferry routes from the mainland are run by the North Carolina Department of Transportation; vehicles and RVs are accepted.)

On Ocracoke, where to dine, drink, and stay

On Ocracoke Island, hundreds and miles of uninhabited coastline coexist with a charming village atmosphere. Ocracoke, the most remote inhabited island of the Outer Banks, was officially founded in 1715 when the colony of North Carolina established it as a port. It is the southernmost municipality inside the boundaries of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore. If you sit on the upper deck and take in the kilometers of ocean waves and diving seagulls, the ferry voyage is a serene, relaxing experience.

Despite the fact that tourism is now one of the island's major industries, it still has a small-town atmosphere due to the lack of chain restaurants and shops and the peaceful, sandy paths that run through the hamlet.

If you arrive in the late afternoon, you'll have time to take in the sunset from the docks before going to dinner at Ocracoke Oyster Company. The catch of the day determines the specials, which are all locally caught fish. A pan-seared flounder topped with a crab cake and clam chowder sauce is the oysters Rockefeller and filled flounder special. It is best enjoyed with an oyster stout beer that is partially brewed from oyster shells. Try to save room for Janille Turner, the owner's, handmade cherry cobbler.

Visit the Ocracoke Harbor Inn, which has an own terrace adjacent to each room and offers views of Silver Lake Harbor. Another nice location close to the main streets of Ocracoke is the recently refurbished Pony Island Inn.

The following morning, the Greek breakfast at Helios Hideaway and the chocolate croissants from Magic Bean Coffee Bazaar both call.

(The Greek pita wrap is fantastic; the bread is excellent.)

Lunchtime!

A variety of fresh-catch dishes are available at Smacnally's, and they can be savored while observing seabirds dive and boaters enter and exit the Anchorage harbor.

A flight of beers from 1718 Brewing Ocracoke pairs well with the fish tacos produced from the day's catch that is cooked as well as the burgers topped with barbecue that are made by Plum Pointe Food Kitchen. Some of the beers in the flight have cheeky names like Notorious F.I.G. Sit at a picnic table outside while listening to live music (acoustic Jimmy Buffett vibes come to mind) and taking in one of the most beautiful sunsets of your life. It's like getting a soul massage.

The second-oldest still in use lighthouse in the nation is Ocracoke.

Best activities on Ocracoke

If you want to spend the day surfing, fishing, or lying on the beach, head to the 16 miles of unspoilt coastline. Enjoy the views of the marsh by using the South Point Road Ramp 72 access road, which is also a well-liked running route. No car? No issue. You can drop off and pick up using transportation services like OBX Beach Shuttle Services. (Some parts of the beach can only be reached on foot, while others can only be reached by 4WD vehicles. To rent one of these vehicles, contact a private outfitter like Ray Stallings of OBX Beach Shuttle Services at 252-908-2994.) The large beachside area guarantees you won't be cramped next to your neighbor, even during the busiest summer months.

The National Park Service has set aside a large portion of the island's land and dunes for preservation. Visit Springer's Point Nature Preserve, a 122-acre mixture of old maritime forest, wet grasslands, and salt marsh, accessible by a sandy road off of neighboring streets, to take in some of the last remaining natural oases. (Since there is no public parking, it is advisable to bike or walk.) Follow the Preserve's 0.8-mile nature route to Teach's Hole, a sound-side beach with a view of where the pirate Blackbeard met his demise in 1718. This property was purchased by the Coastal Land Trust and named one of the state's significant natural heritage locations. The trail is lined with ancient live oak trees and flowering yucca plants while anoles, a tiny lizard, scamper along.

Take a little stroll on the boardwalk leading up to Ocracoke Lighthouse as you make your way back toward the village. The oldest operational lighthouse in North Carolina was constructed in 1823. The boutiques on old Howard Street or the Ocracoke Preservation Society Museum might keep you occupied for the entire afternoon (for retail therapy). I couldn't help but purchase numerous items of pottery and jewelry for family members from Village Craftsman, which sells hand-crafted goods made by regional craftsmen.

If you can only accomplish one thing, what would it be?

A tour of an oyster farm, located not far from the island's beaches, is one of the island's distinctive opportunities. Fletcher O'Neal, an expert in Ocracoke mariculture, can arrange a 1.5-hour tour of an oyster farm that includes a sample of very fresh (literally just-out-of-the-water) raw oysters. Contact him at 252-588-0106.

How to navigate Ocracoke

The fact that Ocracoke is a bikeable and walkable island is one of its attractions. You may explore the entire village in an afternoon if you rent a cruiser. Ocracoke is a true oasis; there are no national chains or franchisees there.

You'll take the ferry back to the mainland when it's time to depart. But before you leave the state, stop at an Inner Banks town like New Bern to take in a blend of modern pleasure and historical beauty.

These gardens served as Governor Tryon's retreat in the 1770s, while the British were still in control of North Carolina.

N. Bern

A group of settlers from Bern, Switzerland (which is now New Bern's sister city) established New Bern in 1710. The first animal a group of hunters found there, a bear, inspired the name Bern. Going on a scavenger hunt for 85 individually created fiberglass and ceramic bears hidden across the city is currently one of the pleasures of visiting. Each was produced in 2010 to commemorate the town's 300th anniversary. New Bern, which has a population of under 30,000, has a small-town vibe yet is anything but quiet.

Best activities in New Bern

Start your tour with lunch at Persimmons Waterfront Restaurant, which serves delicacies including tomato pie, crab cakes, and fried green tomatoes using regional, sustainable products. A large portion of the restaurant's construction is made of environmentally friendly materials. All of the table tops were made from red gum logs that were found during the dredging of the nearby marina more than ten years ago, and the host stand was constructed from a log from an eastern North Carolina native persimmon tree. Enjoy the Neuse River's shoreline views from a seat on the deck.

After lunch, stroll through downtown New Bern and Union Point Park. Don't miss stopping at the Pepsi-Cola birthplace at the intersection of Pollock and Middle streets, which is surrounded by family-owned businesses like Mitchell's Hardware, ice cream parlors, and boutiques like Peacock's Plume.

Caleb Bradham, a pharmacist in New Bern, created and started selling a carbonated drink he called "Brad's Drink"—later renamed Pepsi-Cola—at the soda fountain in his store in 1893. The original Pepsi Store still retains a lot of that atmosphere, from the vintage popcorn machine to the soda shop counters and collection of Pepsi-Cola memorabilia in the storefront.

With a soda in hand, return outside and take in the enchanting atmosphere created by Spanish moss on trees that line the wide avenues and old-fashioned buildings. (It's understandable why Nicholas Sparks, author of The Notebook, calls this place home; his imagined communities resemble New Bern quite a little.)

The best way to learn about and view much of the history of the town, including historic homes, the Cedar Grove Cemetery, and the magnificent Christ Episcopal Church in downtown, is on a New Bern Trolley Tour. After a 90-minute car tour, cross the street to see Tryon Palace on foot. This historic building, which was lovingly conserved and was formerly known as the Governor's Palace, served as the official residence of the British governor of North Carolina from 1770 to 1775. You can hear stories about the former governor and his family while admiring the antique furniture, wardrobe, and portrait paintings from the 18th century. Tulips, irises, and water lilies bloom in the springtime as you stroll around the 21 acres of gardens there.

Due to the Trent and Neuse rivers passing through New Bern, you may still engage in a number of watersports even when you aren't at a beach. Visit Stand Up Outfitters for stand-up paddleboarding, windsurfing, kayaking, and more. You can literally walk a few feet from the store and stroll straight onto the lake, and owners Kate and Charley Lewis will outfit you for any adventure you're seeking.

Enjoy the Neuse River's waterfront views from Persimmons Waterfront Restaurant's deck.

Accommodations in New Bern

At the Aerie Bed & Breakfast, familiarity and comfort are in abundance.

The historic Street-Ward c. 1882 Italianate Victorian property blends luxury rooms with modern comforts and a delectable handmade breakfast prepared by co-owner John. Order champagne or a massage service to your distinctively named room or suite. The lovely Carolina Suite, with its high windows, luxurious couches, and extra-large bathtub, was my favorite. I was hesitant to leave for my day's travels because of the ambiance, which was laid-back, welcoming, and wonderful (a parrot welcomes you in the little guest-accessible kitchen, packed with sparkling waters, sodas, and snacks available to visitors anytime).

If you can only accomplish one thing, what would it be?

Visit the urban-chic Cypress Hall Kitchen + Bar on Middle Street in the heart of the city for supper. The menu, created by head chef Ashley Moser, combines modern and traditional interpretations of Southern food and is inventive and fresh. (The duck pastrami pizza is amazing, and the smoked deviled eggs and pimento cheese on the pig rinds are worth indulging in.) If you're lucky, renowned local oyster farmer Ryan Bethea might arrive at your table carrying a tray of freshly picked Green Gill oysters. Mema's famed strawberry cake, which bears the name of Moser's grandmother, is a must-order sweet. Despite your best efforts, your waitress will not divulge the recipe.

The only difficult part about touring the Outer and Inner Banks is deciding where to go. A genuine North Carolina vacation is in store this summer.

Jerry is an American writer and author. He lives in a condo adjacent to Río de la Plata, where he resides with his beautiful Argentine wife, Alejandra, their rescue dog Revi, and rescue cat named Mandhu -- Cat-Mandhu, get it?