Cosmeticorexia: A Worrying Obsession With Flawless Skin Or Just a New Term for an Old Problem?

Walk into any major beauty retailer today, and you may notice a striking shift: pre-teens and young children crowd around product testers, film “Sephora haul” videos, and carefully select serums, exfoliants, and creams that were once designed exclusively for adult skin. Even birthday party bags now include sheet masks and soft headbands instead of sweets and toys. This growing cultural trend, often referred to as the “Sephora kids” phenomenon, has caught the attention of both dermatologists and psychologists, giving rise to a new term in health discussions: cosmeticorexia.

But does this label describe a brand-new condition, or is it simply a modern name for something we have seen before?

What Exactly Is Cosmeticorexia?

Cosmeticorexia, sometimes also called dermorexia, is defined as an extreme, compulsive preoccupation with achieving “perfect,” blemish-free skin. Unlike a healthy interest in self-care or a simple routine to keep skin clean and comfortable, this behaviour involves an overwhelming focus on appearance, the excessive use of products, and significant distress over even minor or imagined imperfections.

The term moved from social media discussions into clinical and regulatory attention earlier this year. In March 2026, Italian researchers published a study suggesting that cosmeticorexia could be a clinically relevant behavioural pattern, while Italian authorities launched investigations into major beauty brands over concerns that they were increasingly targeting younger audiences.

Physical Harm and Mental Distress

For Associate Professor Giovanni Damiani, a dermatologist and researcher at the University of Milan, the warning signs first appeared in his clinic. Over recent years, he has seen a sharp increase in cases of irritant and allergic contact dermatitis among children aged 8 to 14, many of whom were using strong active ingredients such as alpha hydroxy acids, retinoids, and high-concentration serums without medical supervision.

Alongside skin damage, Damiani observed worrying psychological patterns:

• Refusing to leave home or go to school without applying multiple layers of products or makeup

• Spending several hours each day watching skincare tutorials and reviews on social media

• Constantly switching between products, hoping to find the “perfect” solution.

• Letting this focus take over time that should be spent on schoolwork, hobbies, or friends

Working with clinical psychologist Alberto Stefana from the National Institute of Health in Rome, Damiani set out to understand whether this fixation could be an early risk factor for more serious conditions like body dysmorphic disorder (BDD), a mental health condition where a person becomes consumed by thoughts about perceived flaws in their appearance.

The Influence of Social Media and Marketing

Most experts agree that the current trend is driven largely by the digital world. Platforms like TikTok, Instagram, and YouTube are flooded with content showing seemingly flawless skin, often enhanced by filters, lighting, and digital editing. Influencers promote long, complex routines, creating the impression that dozens of products are necessary to be healthy, confident, or attractive.

Grace Collinson, clinical program manager at Australia’s Butterfly Foundation, which supports people with body image concerns, explains the impact:

“Young people are learning to fear ageing or ‘imperfect’ skin before they have even gone through puberty. They are being sold the message that they must reach an impossible standard of perfection, or buy expensive products, to feel accepted.”

Fifteen-year-old Erin from Sydney says she follows beauty influencers and buys products based on their recommendations. “I would never go to school without my skincare and makeup done,” she says. To her, it feels like a hobby, but it is this very blurring of the line between interest and obsession that raises concern.

A New Label, or an Old Problem?

One of the biggest questions surrounding cosmeticorexia is whether it represents a new disorder or simply a new name for familiar issues.

Those in favour of the term say it helps bring clarity. “Naming the phenomenon allows us to recognise it, study it, and provide better support,” says Damiani. “It highlights that for some people, what starts as a simple routine can turn into something that harms their skin and their mental health.”

However, other experts warn against over-medicalising normal behaviour. Dr Jasmine Fardouly, a senior lecturer in psychology at the University of Sydney, notes that many of the symptoms described under cosmeticorexia already fit well-established conditions such as body dysmorphic disorder, obsessive-compulsive traits, or general appearance anxiety.

Dr Deshan Sebaratnam, a dermatologist and associate professor at the University of New South Wales, puts it plainly:

“Cosmeticorexia is essentially a pop culture term for an old problem. We have always had people who fixate on their looks, but today, with endless content and products available at the click of a button, that obsession is amplified and made to feel normal.”

When Does Interest Become Obsession?

It is important to remember that not every child or teen who enjoys skincare is at risk. Many learn healthy habits, understand ingredients, and feel more confident taking care of their skin, and that is a positive step.

The concern arises when the behaviour crosses into excess:

• When the routine takes over daily life, affecting school, sleep, or relationships

• When the person feels extreme anxiety, shame, or panic, they cannot use their products

• When they use strong, age-inappropriate ingredients that damage their skin barrier

• When their entire sense of self-worth depends on how their skin looks

As Fardouly explains:

“More than half of young people feel unhappy with their appearance at times, which is common. But when that feeling becomes constant, overwhelming, and stops them from living normally, that is when it becomes a problem.”

Looking Ahead

The Italian research team is now conducting three more studies to gather more detailed data on cosmeticorexia, aiming to better understand its causes, links to social media, and long-term effects. Meanwhile, mental health and dermatology professionals are urging balance: encourage healthy habits, but also teach that “flawless” skin is an unrealistic standard created by filters and marketing.

For parents, educators, and young people themselves, the message is clear: self-care is valuable, but it should never come at the cost of physical health or mental well-being.

Where to Find Support

• Australia: Butterfly Foundation — 1800 33 4673

• United Kingdom: BDD Foundation<|join|>United Kingdom: BDD Foundation

• United States: International OCD Foundation