The Ogoh-Ogoh Parade to Cleanse the Island of Evil Spirits

Ogoh-ogoh parade

The thrilling, long-awaited ogoh-ogoh parade, known as Ngrupuk, is mounted the evening before Nyepi, the Balinese New Year. The name derived from Balinese "ogah-ogah" means "to shake." 

This year's was on March 10, and a slight drizzle dampened the merriment. Nevertheless, hundreds lined the route in my village of Sanur as the procession made its way to the final location at Mertasari Beach.

For weeks in advance, local youth groups in villages throughout the island construct massive, elaborate papier-mâché ogoh-ogoh statues from natural organic materials. Based on mythical creatures and gods, most are frightening-looking demons. The floats may be entered in an island-wide competition.

Commencing after dark, the ogoh-ogoh departs from the location designated by the banjar, a local official of each village. As the parade progresses, spectators join in, following the monsters to the evening's final destination.

Men or young boys, primarily barefoot and garbed in traditional Balinese costumes of sarongs and udeng head scarves, carry the ogoh-ogoh on huge bamboo platforms. 

The procession of gigantic creatures is energetically accompanied by voracious drumming and lit torches. Often, the platforms are ceremoniously twirled, shaken, rattled, or rotated as part of the ritual to thwart evil. It's a delightful, romping spectacle!

Origins and purposes

The genesis of the ogoh-ogoh parade is relatively recent, having commenced in 1980 as preparation on the eve of the silent day of Nyepi. 

The various ascribed meanings and purposes revolve around purifying and driving away evil spirits. One explanation maintains the ogoh-ogoh symbolize purification of the environment of spiritual pollutants emitted from the activities of living beings, particularly humans. 

Others say they ward off evil spirits and human vices and vanquish negative elements to create balance with God, nature, and humankind. The ritual is also said to appease the god of the underworld and destruction.

Nyepi, the next day

Nyepi is a 24-hour period of silence, a day for people to reflect and contemplate the previous year. The entire island goes dark. No lights or illumination are used. Silence is pervasive. People are confined to their homes or hotels.

Nyepi was observed on March 11 this year. It's the Hindu New Year. Unlike the rest of Indonesia, where the primary religion is Islam, Bali's is Hindu. The new year follows the new moon on the Hindu Saka calendar, also used in India and Nepal.

Referred to as the "Day of Silence," it is a profoundly spiritual day in Balinese Hinduism for reflection, prayer, silence, and meditation. Lasting from 6 a.m. to 6 a.m., it symbolizes enlightenment and rebirth. In the days leading up to it, the island participates in a series of rituals to cleanse itself of negativity.

It is based on four precepts of Catur Brata: (1) Amati Geni - no fire or light; (2) Amati Karya - no physical activity except if dedicated to spiritual renewal and cleansing; (3) Amati Lelunganan - no movement; and (4) Amati Lelanguan - fasting and no revelry, entertainment or merrymaking.

This day is about introspection, rest, and silence. People believe that evil spirits will think the island is empty or abandoned and leave. Everybody on the island, even tourists, is expected to recognize Nyepi Day of Silence. Beaches and the only airport in Bali are closed.

Lifestyle change for a day

Everyone is confined to their homes or hotels except for an emergency. No hotel check-ins/outs are permitted. The airport closes at midnight the prior night. Businesses throughout the entire island are shuttered. No lights or fire are to be used. TV and Internet signals are supposedly blocked. My Internet/Wi-Fi, however, was functional, but not the television.

Only the emergency services are exempt from these rules. It is also recognized and accepted that women in labor cannot adhere to the Nyepi rules.

It is a magically surreal day. My more detailed article about it is forthcoming.

Your time is valuable. Thanks for spending some of it here. 

Victoria 🙏😎

© Victoria Kjos. All Rights Reserved. 2024.