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The Golden Circle of Iceland

A winter's journey through the popular sites of Western Iceland

By Jennifer ChristiansenPublished 2 years ago Updated 2 years ago 4 min read
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Gullfoss Waterfall (Photograph taken by the author)

The only thing wrong with our December trip to Iceland - besides the stress of the covid tests - was that it was too short. Our journey through the Golden Circle of Iceland could have lasted much longer than our brief day. But my husband and I have stories and memories of our time that will always live in our hearts and minds.

“Adventure is worthwhile.” Aesop

Our first stop was Thingvellir (Þingvellir), which became Iceland’s first national park in 1928 and a World Heritage Site in 2004. With its historical, cultural, and geological significance, it has become one of the most popular tourist destinations in Iceland. The spectacular views overlook a volcanic rift valley that marks the crest of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge and the boundary between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. It’s also the site of Þingvallavatn, the largest natural lake in Iceland.

Thingvellir National Park (Photograph taken by the author)

For a couple of weeks each year during Viking times and the early Middle Ages, it was the site of parliament meetings (Alþing). In fact, Thingvellir means Parliament Plains. It was chosen for its central location near water, and the proceedings ended up being quite the party consisting of drinking, trading, gossiping, and socializing.

The meetings that took place were not only for legislative matters but also for judicial grievances. From the years 930 to 1262, if someone was found guilty, their punishment was enforced by the accuser since there was no central authority. After 1262, Icelanders fell under the jurisdiction of the Norwegian king. A severe justice system called Jónsbók was introduced from Norway in 1281, and harsh laws on morality significantly increased the frequency of corporal punishment at Thingvellir.

The Drowning Pool (Photograph taken by the author)

With the novelty of public execution, Thingvellir was no longer a fun place for anyone, save the most diehard sadists. The hiking trail of lava rocks leads to four spots where people were either drowned, burned alive, hanged, or decapitated.

By Alex He on Unsplash

Death by drowning was reserved for women found guilty of loose morals. Eighteen women were tied in sacks and drowned here for the so-called crimes of adultery and incest. The last was killed in 1749.

List of women drowned (Photograph taken by the author)

Thieves, the lowest of criminals, were usually beheaded. Those brought in for witchcraft and magic were burned at the stake.

There are numerous hiking trails available for walking and horseback riding, but as we were there in late December, the cold limited our trek to the main area of the assembly site. Here is a link to the hiking trails that are available.

We also discovered that some Games of Thrones episodes were shot here, namely scenes with the characters of Arya and The Hound.

“The gladdest moment in human life, methinks, is a departure into unknown lands.” – Sir Richard Burton

Mount Hekla (Photograph taken by the author)

On our journey that day, we passed Mount Hekla, an active volcano that was formerly thought to be the Gateway to Hell. An English verse even proclaimed that Judas Iscariot himself was kept imprisoned inside Hekla. Hekla has erupted more than twenty times over the past one-thousand years, and it may be due to erupt again soon.

Our next stop was the Geysir geothermal valley, best known for the Strokkur hot spring.

Walking up to the main attraction, it was surreal to see the boiling water bubbling up from the frozen earth - truly bringing to life Iceland's moniker as the Land of Fire and Ice.

The dynamic, natural spectacle of Strokkur routinely blasts boiling water over 60 feet into the air. As this was the first geyser we’ve ever seen, we braved the bitter wind to see Mother Nature’s miracle erupt quite a few times.

The author and Strokkur Geyser

Gullfoss waterfall creates an astounding visual contrast to the miles of serene farmland that surround it. Veiled behind a luminous curtain of water vapor, this awe-inspiring natural wonder immediately captivated us with its cascade tumbling over two prominent ledges.

Again, in late December, we shivered and braced ourselves in the biting wind to observe the mighty waterfall from a viewing platform. Then, we dashed into the café for fish stew and the absolute best hot chocolate known to mankind.

Taken at Gullfoss by the author

Our final stop in this section of Iceland was the Secret Lagoon, where we warmed up and relaxed our bodies in the country's oldest swimming pool. Made in 1891, an active geyser spouts every few minutes and supplies all the water in the lagoon. The healthy, sulfur-rich water remains over 100 degrees Fahrenheit all year long.

A selfie by the author in the Secret Lagoon

Our time traveling through the Land of Fire of Ice will undoubtedly remain a highlight in our lives. We hope to visit again in the summer to see the transformation from the winter holiday season of the Northern Lights into the magical time of the Midnight Sun.

“Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.” Ibn Battuta

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About the Creator

Jennifer Christiansen

Animal advocate, traveler, and bibliophile. Lover of all things dark and romantic.

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