The Dream 4-Day Solo Trip to the Land of Thunder Dragon

2019 ended on an emotional rollercoaster for me. I'd suffered a devastating personal loss. After that, the only way I could pull myself out of the abyss of self-pity was to give in to my soul's wanderlust. And so, I took myself on a life-altering trip to four cities in eleven days.

The trip was initially planned because I had to present a paper at a conference in Surat, Gurajat. After that, I visited New Delhi, Mumbai and Kolkata, before coming back home with a head full of memories. The trip helped me recover. It also helped me discover parts about myself I hadn't known existed. It cleared my head and forced me to sort through my thoughts, finally getting some clarity on my priorities and setting a few goals for the future.

That's the magic of spending so much time with yourself in a new place: it forces you to see things from a different perspective and learn truths about yourself you wouldn't have otherwise confronted.

That's why, when I was making plans for 2020, I made sure to include 3 solo trips - at least one of them to a foreign land. Growing up, I'd been enamoured by the idea of visiting the nearest neighbouring country - Bhutan. It is a unique nation both culturally and environmentally. Perched high in the Himalayas, it is the world’s last remaining Buddhist Kingdom. Another fascinating aspect about it is that it has developed the philosophy of Gross National Happiness; where development is measured using a holistic approach of well-being, not just based on gross domestic product.

However, dreams of foreign travel are not easy to harbour, especially for a young girl from a middle-class Indian family. The idea of having enough disposable income to spend on travelling to a different country sounded so unfamiliar, so out of each, that I dared not make any conscious plans. Only when I started earning money, did I understand that with proper planning, my long-cherished dream could be a reality.

And so, even though I couldn't make this dream come true in 2020 (thank you, pandemic), I'm a writer, and I'll do the best I can. This post is a celebration of all that could never be - my first solo trip to Bhutan.

Indeed, a writer doesn't need wings - or for that matter, even planes. Our words are enough.

Phase One: Entering the Country

I'd book myself a train ticket from Guwahati to New Alipurduar, and then take a tourist cab from the railway station to Jaigaon. Jaigaon is a small town in West Bengal, sharing a border with the neighbouring country. It's crowded almost to the brim, its streets littered with discarded plastic packets and rolled up bits of paper, the roads clogged with cars and autorickshaws. While I wait to get my currencies changed, I'd notice the magnificent gateway decorated with ornate dragons that separate the two countries.

The sight of the beautiful structure will get my heart racing. This is the only point of entry to the country through Phuentsholing — a border town bridging Jaigaon and the land of the Thunder Dragon.

The first thing I'd notice after setting foot in Bhutan would be the tranquillity in the air. After the hustle of the crowded West Bengal streets, the serenity of Phuentsholing would be a welcome change. Although separated by a few hundred metres, the two cities are like two different worlds. I'd breathe in the peace and quiet of the country and open my eyes to be mesmerised by the intricate patterns adorning the walls of the immigration office.

It'll be September when I visit — the weather neither too hot nor too cold. It'd be drizzling slightly on the first day, but the rains would only add to the beauty of the land, waking me up from my sleep-deprived state like nothing else.

Streetside Sights

I'd book another cab from Phuentsholing to Thimphu - the capital city. The ride along green mountainous roads peppered with quaint houses with intricate roof decor and graffiti on the walls would most certainly be a rare treat.

I'd talk to the cab-driver and learn that the dragons painted on the walls have a special significance: because of Bhutan’s strategic location amid the tall Himalayas, it experiences a lot of thunder during the rainy season. Traditionally, the Bhutanese believed this thunder to be sound of dragons, thus earning the country its moniker: The land of the Thunder Dragon. Till today, people decorate their walls with pictures of dragons as a harbinger of good luck.

Apart from the dragons, another recurring wall decor among the Bhutanese is the phallus — an erect human penis. Local folklore believes that the penis can ward off evil spirits, keeping the family safe from the influence of black magic. Adhering to this custom, decorated phalluses are commonly seen in curio shops and as mantlepieces. Regardless of history, this would most certainly come as the biggest culture shock.

Day One: Roaming Around in Thimphu

Bhutan is a paradise for lovers of architecture like me. The old monasteries (or dzongs, as they're known as in the local language) are rich with colours and intricate patterns on the ceilings. It would definitely be a treat to watch beautiful buildings popping out of the blue in the middle of a deserted street.

Then, I'd visit the 169 feet tall Buddha Dordenma Statue, made of gold and bronze and built at the foothills in Thimphu. The colossal structure is visible from almost anywhere in the country’s capital. The most interesting part about this statue is that the walls of the small monastery surrounding it are sparkling gold in colour and adorned with vivid paintings of animals in various poses.

Day Two: The Journey to Paro through Punakha

Another day. Another journey in a tourist cab.

The Punakha Dzong in Paro Valley is situated across a river and accessible only by a bridge on foot. This monastery serves as the winter palace of the royal family of Bhutan. The intricate paintings and the architecture of the fort around this place shall take my breath away.

The first mesmerising view of this magnificent sight would alone make the 3-hour long cab journey worth all the pain.

The Dochula Pass, a war memorial situated on the way to Punakha from Thimphu would be my highlight of the second day. It is most certainly a breathtaking sight, consisting of 108 Chortens or Stupas built in the memory of the brave Bhutanese soldiers. The snow-capped Gangkar Puensum peak in the background would make this one of the most beautiful locations in the country.

Day Three: The Tiger's Nest Trek

The most beautiful experience in Bhutan, no doubt, would be the Tiger’s Nest or Taktsang Monastery, located atop a lush green mountain, accessible after a 5km trek on foot from Paro. The trekking trail itself would be the highlight, with waterfalls, prayer wheels and colourful Buddhist prayer flags adorning the way.

The monastery buildings consist of four main temples and residential shelters ideally designed by adapting to the rock (granite) ledges, the caves and the rocky terrain. The first sight of the monastery nestled among outcrops of rock would be a sight for sore eyes indeed.

Day Four: A Day in Thimphu

The last day in this magical land would be reserved for roaming about the streets of Thimphu and soaking in the positive vibes of the country. Not the tourist spots, but the lanes around the little Airbnb I'd book. I'd explore the quaint villages obscured from view and interact with locals and hear their stories. I've even made a playlist of happy, uplifting songs that I'd listen to as I walk along. Most of these songs are either in Hindi or Assamese, but I'm sure the beauty of music transcends the barrier of language.

I'd make friends with adorable street dogs who would wag their tails and run up to meet me as I step out. The dogs would be so full of energy, that running around and playing with them would tire me out.

Then, I'd walk around clicking pictures. I'd stand on the edge of the trail, looking down at the Thimphu valley surrounded by hills. Hundreds of houses that appear like lego blocks dotting the city in its entirety would make me smile. The magnificent Thimphu river snaking around the lush greenery would only add to the beauty. Clouds as white as cotton candy would adorn the hills like a dreamy wreath. The morning sun would be so bright, it'd seem as if light emanates not just from the sky, but from every perfect blade of grass on the valley below.

I'd then find a hamlet nestled among the foothills. The houses would be small, the courtyards adjoining them green and full of trees that I don’t know the names of. Quite unexpectedly, I'd walk into a small orchard of apples. An old man wrapped in a red shawl would be seated near the gate. When he spots me, his wrinkled face would split into a wide grin as he'd opened the gate and invite me in. Awestruck, I'd look around and marvel at the generosity and kindness of the Bhutanese people.

Instantly, I'd be greeted with the overwhelming scent of freshly-cut grass and ripe apples. It would be a sight to behold — those trees with thin branches, each drooping with what seemed like a hundred bright-red apples.

The old man would speak to me, but, when I won't be able to understand what he was saying, he'd walk up to a tree, pick an apple from its branches, bite off a mouthful and start chomping in glee. Awed, I'd pluck two apples for myself and walk out of the orchard, a wild smile on my face.

Those apples would be red and ripe, each bite dripping with sweet juice. They would be delicious. It would almost be evening when I return to my Airbnb, giddy with happiness.

The Delicious Bhutanese Cuisine

How can a trip - even fictional ones - to any country be complete without raving about its delicious cuisine?

Bhutanese food is made with fewer spices — a fact that might not settle well with the Indian palette I'm used to. I've heard from my friends who visited the place call the food “bland” even after adding lots of salt.

I'm sure I'd love it though. I'm especially excited to try the Ema Datshi, a dish of green capsicum sauteed with cheese. Taken with white rice, this dish can be sampled for the unique taste of Bhutan.

Vegetarian momos (dumplings) with cheese are quite popular. Another dish I'm sure I'd become a huge fan of is the Thukpa, or the noodle soup. Every bite would be like an explosion of taste and the lush green hills of Thimphu in the background would only serve in making the dish tastier.

The Trip that Would Change My Life

Thanks to the pandemic, I've already spent a lot of time with myself. But doing so in a foreign land is a different ballgame altogether. Bhutan is one of the calmest, most serene places on the planet and I'd love to spend a few days of peace in this magical land. It's also one of the safest places on the planet with a very low crime rate. This, combined with the famed kindness and generosity of the locals makes it an ideal place for a female solo traveller.

The exchange rate also makes this one of the cheapest holiday destinations in the world. If one books Airbnbs or lodges with locals, the total amount for travel and boarding would barely amount to 8000 BTN ($100 US) for a solo trip.

The pictures in this article (unless stated otherwise) are used from the time when a close friend of mine went to the country. Ever since she regaled me with her experiences, I've wanted to visit this magical land. I'd like to trek in the lush green hills, make friends with locals, learn about the principles of Buddhism from practising monks, and lose myself only to find bits of myself I'd unconsciously hidden so deep down inside.

It's been almost a year when all I've stared at are the four walls of my house. Writing this article gave me the chance to take a leap and broaden my horizons. I can't wait for the times to be stable so I can make this fantasy of mine a reality. I can't wait to take an actual solo trip to the Land of the Thunder Dragon.