The art of walking Le Puy Camino

A year ago, on a whim, I took a flight from Melbourne to Paris and set out solo on the Le Puy Camino through rural south-west France.

As I stood on the majestic 14th-century medieval Valentré Bridge – a well-known pilgrim milestone on the River Lot – I wondered how my rusty French and mediocre navigation skills would get me from the alluring old town of Cahors to Condom in the midst of Armagnac (brandy) country.

Outside of hiking communities and the villages it affects, Le Puy is little known, even in France. So, here's my advice for walking this stunningly beautiful, rugged, rewarding and romantic trail.

How long is the route?

If I was to walk the entire Le Puy Camino (aka Via Podiensis, Chemin du Puy) I would need about 5 weeks.

The 736km route begins in Le Puy-en-Velay – a medieval town close to Lyon in the mountains of the Massif Central – and ends at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port at the foothills of the Pyrenees.

From there, the trail merges with the Camino Francés – the most popular of all the Camino routes – and extends another 780km to Santiago de Compostela in western Spain.

I had 8 days (160km) of walking ahead. The section I chose to walk – Cahors, Montcuq, Lauzerte, Moissac, Auvillar, Lectoure, La Romieu, Condom – is spectacular. It is chock-full of crumbling abbeys, medieval villages and Gothic churches and the landscape itself allows plenty of time and space for contemplation.

What's a typical day like?

This walk effortlessly follows a certain pattern. First you grab an early morning croissant and café noir from a patisserie. Then you find the start of the Camino route out of town and easily follow the GR65 waymarkers.

Mid-morning you pause for coffee and conversation at a makeshift pilgrim stall*. Then you walk some more before a lunch stop under a tree (bread, cheese, wine, nap). A couple more hours of walking should get you to the lovely French village where you plan to spend the night.

You visit the local church, wash up for dinner, then meet pilgrim friends for dinner and bottles of wine (alfresco). If you're staying in a gîte, you need to make it back to your room before the strict 10pm curfew. Or you could choose a luxury hotel instead. More about that later.

* Along the route there are many impromptu ‘cafes’ for pilgrims/walkers that have been set up in gardens by French landowners. Expect to find flasks of tea and coffee, plus water and baskets of fresh oranges and apples (donation 1 euro).

Is it all hay bales and sunshine?

I began with a fairly gentle 30km journey through the Quercy Blanc and rolling green hills of the Garonne River plain. Magnifique!

Quaint hamlets appear at regular intervals. I counted more tractors than cars. Livestock outnumbered humans.

Over the week I was treated to landscapes dotted with small oaks and ancient raised dovecotes. There are introspective stretches along quiet roads and through vegetable gardens and orchards.

There are also craggy vineyards, fields exploding with vivid red poppies, and undulating fields of wheat, corn and garlic.

Sometimes I emerged through thick woodland and out onto vast open landscapes with – yes – round hay bales; the air filled with the smell of wild grass and damp earth.

Bonjour! Pleased to meet you

Le Puy does not have the international flavour of the Camino Francés.

Most of the pilgrims on Le Puy Camino are French. They walk for 2 weeks at a time, returning later or the following year to walk a different stage.

I'm indebted to Marguerite, a deeply religious Parisian social worker, whom I met after only 3 hours on the trail. When I approached a group of walkers sipping beers around white plastic tables in the hot afternoon May sun, she welcomed me with open arms, kissed me on both cheeks and ordered two grande glasses of refreshingly cold beer!

Amused but not offended by my very poor French, she immediately set to work correcting my pronunciation and expanding my vocabulary. We walked together for the remainder of that day and many thereafter.

Alain, a French pilgrim from Brittany, cheered me up as we pushed through the sideways rain on the flat and dull canal towpath to Auvillar (I'm sure that section is lovely when the sun is shining). I thawed out with a coffee and baguette at the Pommevic boulangerie while he chatted to the morning-drinking, cigarette-smoking cheek-kissing locals.

There were also two French pilgrims with ailing horses. Another story.

I did meet some Germans and a scattering of other nationalities. Some were walking the full 1600km all the way to Santiago. Dajana, a spirited 32-year-old business analyst from the Lake of Constance in Germany, was walking to the ‘end of the world’ (Finisterre), a whopping 2430km from where she began her 3-month pilgrimage in Switzerland. We remain close friends.

The villages are magical

The GR65 brings walkers directly into many towns, which have managed to stay themselves without giving in to the sirens of tourism.

The charming hilltop village of Montcuq is a peaceful discovery and absolute treat with its medieval alleyways.

Lauzerte appeared like a mirage after a full day of walking. Quirky wrought-iron signs adorn the exteriors of many buildings.

The serene hilltop village of Auvillar is built mainly of the trademark red-brick of the region. The office de tourisme in a converted convent has a modern art space and an abundance of English-language tourist paraphernalia.

The flower-bedecked medieval village of La Romieu began life in the 11th century as a stopping place for Benedictine monks on their way to Rome. The highlight is the Legend of Angeline and the whimsical feline sculptures scattered throughout the village square.

On navigating my way through the French countryside

I packed a guidebook with inordinate route details, and a Michelin map (for altitude profiles). Neither was necessary.

The trail is exceptionally well marked and follows the GR65. There are frequent (and comforting) horizontal red-and-white stripes, one above the other. The red-and-white crosses (usually nailed to a tree or painted on a rock) tell you which direction not to take.

Go to church (even if you're not religious)

Moissac’s majestic Abbey Saint-Pierre, one of the most beautiful Romanesque buildings in France, was a beautiful place to receive my first pilgrim blessing. The cloister, used by medieval monastics for walking meditation, dates back to 1100.

In the historic walled town of Lectoure you'll find the spectacular Cathedral of Saint Gervais & Saint Protais. After lingering in my wooden pew, I ate large slices of lavish cake and drank tea at the nearby salon de thé.

Lauzerte's splendid baroque altarpiece in the Church of St Bartholomew is a must-see.

Worth noting...many of the long paths on Le Puy Camino are dotted with crosses and chapels – all of them unlocked so that, if you choose, you can stop at each one to reflect or pray.

Ooh la la! Luxury accommodation (and food!)

Lauzerte has a stunning hotel about 1km from town. Overlooking the Barguelonne valley, it offers superb views of the countryside, particularly from the infinity pool. What would medieval pilgrims have thought of my Jacuzzi and champagne?

Montcuq has a noble and luxurious establishment with four guest rooms. Fifteenth-century architecture blends seamlessly with contemporary interior design. The hosts are former fashion designers. Their love of refinement and attention to detail is on show here. The candlelit breakfast is lavishly chic and includes Claude’s famous brioche.

In Lectoure, a short walk from the cathedral, there is an opulent hotel in a restored 17th-century mansion. It is a luxurious French jewel – the four magnificent suites are furnished with exquisite artwork and stunning décor, and the outdoor pool and huge indoor Jacuzzi are a real treat.

This is definitely the time to indulge in French food and wine! Black truffles, escargot, foie gras, confit du canard, Rocamadour cheese, chorizo and baguettes.

Should I go on?

What are you waiting for?

Medieval pilgrims took to the ancient Camino trails in their thousands, seeking atonement or pursuing a fertility rite. I just wanted to go for a long walk and have a break from my hyper-connected, over-stimulated, frantically busy, caffeine-fuelled world.

Walking 8 days on Le Puy Camino was the best way for me to exhale. It was a romantic, life-affirming walk in unspoiled nature where time seemed to slow down.

I wasn’t ready for it to end and now I’m counting the days until I can return.

Bonne journée!