Outside Tokyo

If you are travelling through a country, what is the best way to see the countryside? I’ve solo travelled twice through Japan, the first time to Tokyo and Osaka, the second to Tokyo and Kyoto and each time when travelling in the Shinkansen, the bullet train, I loved watching the beautiful countryside zoom past. On my latest solo trip to Tokyo, I decided to go on a day trip to the countryside and while many places came to mind when browsing Google Maps, Nikko and its beauty stood out. Just over two hours from my hostel in Iriya, I set out on a journey to explore the countryside of Japan.

I decided to take the longer, cheaper option to Nikko, so I took the train to Kita-Senju and transferred to the Tobu-Nikko Line at Minami-Kurihashi Station. Along the way I stared in wonder at the scenery passing by. I watched as mini yellow buses passed through the streets, as the older generation played bowls at Kurihashi Station and at the larger, more spaced out houses, much different to the tiny, compact ones in Tokyo.

As I watched the scenery go by, there was an older couple sitting next to me on the train to Minami-Kurihashi Station. As the lady was getting out a bunch of bobby pins, one flung out of her hands and landed on my leg. Smiling, I passed it to her and she was so happy, thanking me with “ありがとう ございます (arigatou gozaimasu)”. We then had a broken conversation, with me picking up the word “かわいい (kawaii)”, meaning cute and I felt my face go warm.

Transferring at Minami-Kurihashi Station, I was busting. Sprinting up the stairs, I turned into the ladies bathroom and waited my turn. As the door opened, my heart sank as I saw the squat toilet. Unfortunately for me, I wasn’t as comfortable as the Japanese with this style of toilet and even though I’d done so camping years before, I chose to hold it in. In my embarrassment, I turned to rush out of the bathroom and I didn’t see the step leading out of the doorway and went flying out of the room, right into the wall. Knowing my face was flaming red, I rushed back to the platform.

The next train had a lot more room than the previous and while there was no English on this one like the other, my stop was the last so I wasn’t stressed. This train also had a pull up table meaning you could eat here but sadly, I wasn’t prepared so I had nothing to eat but a bar of chocolate I had brought to eat throughout the day. Luckily, this train had toilets on it. Just as the train began moving, people moved into the cubicle beside me and I turned out of curiosity and imagine our surprise when it was the older couple I was next to on the previous train. We laughed at the realisation and continued our journey.

The scenery on this half of the trip was what this day was all about. The greenery and vast, empty land blew my mind and as the plantations passed by, my knee bounced up and down as I began itching to walk through them. Strangely enough, there were also no fences sectioning off different properties, even though there were people working out in the fields. The stations that this train stopped at were surrounded by houses and were like little cities in themselves but between them it was all countryside. If I were to come here again, I would stop at Shin-Kunuma station and take a local train one stop over and explore the fields there as they were some of the most green and beautiful of the whole journey.

Finally, we made it to Tobu-Nikko Station. It was much cooler here than the humidity and heat in Tokyo, being about 22oC, so it made for a very pleasant day. Browsing the different transport options, I decided to buy a Day Heritage Bus Pass for 500 yen and waited at the stop for the red bus. As I boarded the bus and sat down, guess who hopped on board, my older couple friends, making us laugh to ourselves. They were like my grandparents on the trip and even though I never saw them again thereafter, they made my day just a little more special and made me feel extra safe.

There are so many stunning stops to see in Nikko and first on my list, Toshogu Shrine. This stunning, large complex has many different sections to see and weaving between the multitudes of school children on excursion, I stared in wonder at the intricate architecture of pagodas and shrines in their deep reds and greens as well as the gold etched detailing. It’s beautiful to see how well preserved and built into nature these shrines are and how you can turn a different direction and there’s something new and unique to see. If you’re up for it, behind the shrine there’s a stone staircase leading to a different monument that is like a mini workout but is beautiful surrounded by all the trees.

Next up, Shinkyo Bridge. I know I should have stepped off the bus at the stop before Toshogu Shrine but sadly I hadn’t, so rather than wait for the bus, I decided to walk. I should have taken the bus… Alternating between following some people and using Google Maps, it took a little longer than I expected so before deciding to walk, make sure you check the times at the bus stops to check when the next bus will be. The bright red Shinkyo Bridge contrasts the greenery and rushing water underneath, especially in the post summer month of September, and makes for a beautiful photo location. It also makes you wonder where the water leads to.

Among exploring other locations, one that stood out to me was Kanmangafuchi Abyss so that became my last destination for the day. It didn’t seem well advertised but as you walked closer, there were some signs pointing to the location if you get stuck but here, Google Maps is your best friend. Walking through the neighbourhood streets, you really get a sense of the solitude yet peacefulness of living so far out from Tokyo. There are parks, water fountains, large houses that actually have backyards and wider streets that remind me of home. Walking by, people are also much friendlier, smiling at you as you pass. As I walked down a street, a section had workers conducting maintenance on a drain and it was partially barricaded off and as I was about to ask if I could walk through, they paused what they were doing and apologised for disturbing me, waving me pass. The kindness and respect of these workers was something I saw throughout Japan but these men really went out of their way to make sure I passed by safely.

Stopping at a bridge which had a beautiful view of trees lining the stream, I thought this was my destination, even though Google Maps said otherwise. I watched as men fished in the stream, one on each side which made a smile and laugh a little since I was sure nothing could be caught in the strong rapids of the water. I followed my gut and kept walking to where Google Maps pointed me and thank goodness I did. I passed by a small restaurant when I saw a couple walk out of the right side of a split road. Deciding that’s where I must go as it followed the stream, I started down when something caught my eye. Backtracking, I turned and stared at the sign and my heart caught in my throat. My eyes widened. The sign was a warning sign and on it was “くま”, meaning bear. I assumed it was for the other road but nonetheless, I walked cautiously and quietly down the path.

Passing some statues with red hats and what reminded me of bibs, I stared in wonder and awe at the sight in front of me, bear warning forgotten. Kanmangafuchi Abyss was absolutely breathtaking. The water flowing in the narrow channel, crashing along the rocks and surrounded by trees and greenery, I can’t even begin to explain how stunning it looked. For some reason, I was one of the only people walking along here and that made it feel even more special.

Leaving Nikko on a high, I got on the bus and took it back to the station. Along the way, a group of eight French nationals stepped onto the bus and sat down with one of them heading down to the front to speak to the driver. In broken English, she tried to explain that they’d been to the waterfalls earlier but now they wanted to see the shrine, however in his own broken English, the driver though she wanted to go to the falls. I was about to tell her that she was on the wrong bus anyway as it was going in the wrong direction when a Japanese lady told them herself in perfect English. I was so surprised because from experience, many Japanese in Tokyo spoke very poor English.

The only train back this time was a more expensive, reserved seat train that was direct to Kita-Senju. I thought there would be a convenience store nearby or at least in the station but there wasn’t so I had nothing to eat on the train back either. Konbini, convenience stores, aren’t as numerous out in the country so make sure you bring some snacks with you.

Watching the scenery go by on the way back, again I wanted to so badly walk through the fields but exploring the Japanese countryside had satisfied me this day so that was for another.