From Wine Cellars to Cave Cities: Georgia Through My Camera

Kakheti

Kakheti is the heart of Georgian wine. People say that wine was made here about 8,000 years ago, so maybe Georgia really is the motherland of wine. Here the wine is made in qvevri, big clay jars buried in the ground, and this method is protected by UNESCO. You can visit small family cellars, taste wine with homemade cheese and bread, and sometimes the host will sing for you. Between the vineyards there are old churches like the one in my photo. It was quiet, with only birds and wind, and I felt that time moves slowly in this place. I recommend staying one night, so you don't need to hurry or drive after drinking wine.

Kazbegi

Kazbegi is the place where I understood how big the Caucasus is. Above the town stands Mount Kazbek, more than 5,000 meters high, and it is an old volcano that is now asleep. In Georgian it is called "Ice Mountain". There is a legend that a hero, Amirani, was chained to this mountain by the gods because he fought for people, like Prometheus in the Greek story. When the clouds open and you see the top, you can almost believe it. On the hill above the town there is Gergeti Trinity Church, from the 14th century. I took this photo near its stone bell tower. The weather was cloudy and cold, and there was still snow around, but this mood made the place feel even older. Be ready for fast changes: sun, fog, wind and rain can come in one hour.

Mtskheta

Mtskheta is very close to Tbilisi, but it feels like another time. It was the capital of ancient Georgia, and it is where the country accepted Christianity in the 4th century. Today it is a small, calm town with a UNESCO list church, Svetitskhoveli, where many Georgian kings are buried. My favorite moment was on the hill above the town, near Jvari Monastery. From there you can see the Aragvi and the Mtkvari rivers meet, and the water has two different colors. It looks like someone painted it with two brushes. This is the view in my photo. It is quiet there, the church is simple and very old, and you can just sit and look for a long time.

Vardzia

Vardzia is a whole city inside a mountain. It was built in the 12th century, in the time of Queen Tamar, as a safe place and a monastery. A local legend says that little Tamar got lost in the caves, and she shouted to her uncle, "I am here!" This is how the name appeared. Later, in 1283, an earthquake broke the front wall of the rock, and now you can see the caves from far away. Inside, you walk through tunnels and small rooms, and you can see an old church with beautiful frescoes. It is quiet, a bit dark, and very impressive. Take comfortable shoes and a small flashlight, because some paths are narrow and stairs can be steep.

This is the only small part

These are just a few places. Georgia has much more: Svaneti with its stone towers, Borjomi with its green forests and mineral water, Bakuriani for winter and mountain walks, Tusheti(where I've not been yet, the road is difficult, and sometimes you simply cannot go there.) and many other corners. I think you can visit the country 10 times and still not see everything.

Quick travel FAQ from me

Is it a good idea to hire a car in Georgia?
Yes, and preferably with a local driver! it is really affordable. The driver is also your guide, so you get stories and local tips on the way. You can enjoy wine without worrying about the road. Driving in Georgia can be difficult, because the mountain roads are narrow and local drivers are very fast and sometimes unpredictable.

How many days do you need in Georgia?
You can find things to do even if you stay for a month. I have been 6 times, and I still have a list of places to visit. But if you have relatively small amount of time, you will still enjoy a part of the country.

What is the food like?
Expect a lot of meat, cheese and bread. Of course, there is also wine and other alcohol, and Georgians love to make toasts. Vegetarians might be fine too: there are many dishes with beans, eggplant, walnuts and vegetables.
Khachapuri (cheese bread), khinkali (dumplings with a lot of juice inside), and badrijani (eggplant with walnuts). A small tip for khinkali: hold it by the top, and don't eat that part.

Do people speak English?
Younger people usually speak English. People older than 40 often know Russian. In tourist places, hotels and restaurants, you will have no big problems. A translation app can help in villages.

Georgian is a very old language, and it is not related to Russian, Turkish, English or any language you probably know. Georgia has its own unique alphabet, and it doesn't look like anything familiar. It is not Latin, not Cyrillic, and not Greek.

A small tip: learn two words. Madloba means "thank you", and Gamarjoba means "Hello". People will smile when they hear it. 🙂

When is the best time to go?
Spring and Summer are my favorite: the weather is nice. And autumn is the time of the wine harvest in Kakheti. Summer is good for the mountains, and winter is for skiing in Bakuriani/Gudauri. Some places, like Tusheti, are open only in the warm months.

Is Georgia safe for tourists?
In my experience, yes. People are exceptionally hospitable, friendly and helpful, and they like to talk with visitors. Mountain roads and weather can be the biggest risk, so listen to local advice.

What should I wear when I visit churches?
Georgian churches are active, so dress modestly. Women usually cover their head and shoulders and wear a long skirt. Men should not wear shorts. Many churches give scarves at the entrance, but it is better to bring your own.