A peaceful day in Nice.

Midnight.

I should probably go to sleep but I can’t take my eyes off of the sky. That’s how I am spending every evening of each day during my yearly holiday in Nice. And I just learnt a new constellation. Swan.

That’s funny how I have waves of existential crises daily sitting on this rooftop terrace.

I should probably go to sleep.

 *

Next thing I know I’m in my bed and it is morning. I am hanging back home soon and I want to do all the best things in the city before I leave. Do it all over again, to be honest. And, let’s go together, dear reader.

 *

It is just after 8 in the morning and I’m heading to Columbus. A small French café that was inspired by American cafes back in the 90s. With the ups and downs of this business now you can find Columbus everywhere. But the one that has a special atmosphere is located in the shopping center called Fnac, on the last floor with a beautiful view of Notre Dame de Nice (yeah, a mini version of infamous from Paris) and the main street. Fnac sells all the different stuff from home goods to electronics but my favourite part is books and vinyls. I’m not passing by this floor today as later we're going to the best bookish corner in the city.

*

It was still early afternoon when I finished my breakfast (I’ve got Columbus’ signature sandwich and their summer lychee drink) so I decided to have a little walk in Jardin de Cimiez. Well, you actually need to go through jardin but I still call this place “Jardin de Cimiez”.

To go up the hill from the center I need to  take the bus (N5) and in 15 min it will take me to the destination.

You can actually see Jardin de Cimiez in many tourist books. I believe it is mostly because of the museum of Matisse.

The garden is beautiful, per se, but not all the visitors are willing to take a transport to walk in a garden. So, it is mostly for Matisse.

*Henri Matisse - French artist, 1869-1954.

Once (was it last year? before that? I don’t really recall) I stumbled upon a monastery that is located right across the park. It is called Monastere de Cimiez. 800 years ago a bunch of monks built it. Existential crises. Again. Hehe.

Right on the side from the monastery you’ll find a piece of heaven on Earth, the garden that technically belongs to the monastery. That’s where we are heading.

It is the most peaceful garden in Nice. Here, under orange trees, a couple of days ago I got the meaning of the quote from “The Wind in the Willows". It was like this: “There’s nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply  messing about in the boats.”

Change “the boat” to “the garden” and it would be a perfect caption for a post.

Maybe it is out of context but shortly “The Wind in the Willows” is a children’s book about friendship, home and nature. The idea that in this little garden you’ll get an immediate urge to slow down and appreciate the nature that’s around you. The mountains, the orange and pomegranate trees, the view at the sea. Pure magic and reset for the mind.

*

I’ve been sitting here for a couple of hours and it is just the right time to go for a coffee date to the best book shop in the city, in my humble opinion.

You either can stroll down the hill (it is easier then to go up) or take a bus back.

“Read a room” bookstore and coffee shop is located right by Garibaldi station. This is the only book store that is dedicated solely for English books (you can find English books in other places but believe me, they were the first ones who presented the idea). It is a family owned business and the family moved here from Canada, as I recall.

But like… Family owned business! Pardon my excitement but I love reading cozy small town romances and this scene is straight from one of them. I can admit I am a bit jealous of folks who’ve got to come here on a regular basis.

“Hello! How are you?” I said as I approached the register.

“Hello, darling. We’re good. Just got the new releases. What about you?”

“Great. Strolling around the city. I forgot that today is Tuesday! I’d like to have a look at these releases. And also I’d like my fav iced latter with pistachio, please.”

I swear to you, dear reader, it is the best pistachio iced latter I’ve ever had. My usual drink is black coffee. No sugar.

I chose the table right near the bookshelves and took the surroundings in.

It is a small shop. Like a living room with bookshelves and tables by the big window. I was told that people come here more for the community rather than books themselves.

Yeah, I totally get it.

An hour later I exited the shop with two books in my hands. I’ve never heard about these books before. One is a kind of poetry book (I’m very far from poetry and I’d like to get better knowledge), the other is a time-traveling mystery novel. That’s a very nice part about this bookstore. You cannot find that many books as, let’s say, in Fnac or Waterstones, but you will find some hidden gems for sure.

I’ll tell you a very pathetic secret of mine. Please, don’t tell anyone. Last time, when I came here before the airport (when I was leaving home), I was actually crying. Crying! That’s a bit embarrassing but I didn’t want to leave this place for long.

*

It is fast to go from here to the place that all the people are coming here for. The Mediterranean sea.

Azure, like in all the songs about the French Riviera and warm, like lakes from the myths. Nothing like in literally any other parts of the world.

Do you know the “One Day” soundtrack from the “Pirates of the Caribbean"? That is exactly how being on that coast feels like.

 It is right after 15:00, so it is a good time for the beach.

I’m walking down the old city, probably the most atmospheric and romantic part of Nice, buying fresh juice and water (essentials for the beach), looking in the shop windows, that seems like straight out of a storybook.

Actually, I want to go to one very special shop before the beach. I have been keeping in mind a pair of earrings since winter. It’s been half a year and I still have them in mind, so I think it's worth buying.

Nach - is a french store of hand made jewellery and clothes that are inspired by nature. Sounds beautiful, looks beautiful as well. Even Emily wore them in Paris.

The ones I’m looking for are in the shape of squirrel and nut. Adorable. Just adorable.

*

You have to get used to the stone beach. I did. If I'd live here I'd get myself a beach chair or a chaise longue. I should probably do it anyway to feel fully local, you know. You can rent one, of course, but I've never done this before, so I am a bad advisor here. Anyways, no matter on what side of the beach you sit, there's one thing absolutely unchanged - the Mediterranean. The sea is as mesmerizing as the night sky, or Northern Lights, or sun eclipse (which I was very lucky to witness recently). 

I love swimming, which I do first when I arrive at the beach, but enjoying all the little hobbies is another blessing.

Reading. Staring at the sea. Coloring. Staring at the sea. Staring at the sky. Swimming. Repeat.

*

The screen shows 18.00 and it is a perfect time to catch an early sunset (early sunset? not sure if it is a thing but it will make sense later).

The thing that you absolutely have to do when in Provence is to go to a real life French picnic. Or any picnic you like for that matter. I had my first real picnic this year on my birthday and I was the happiest, although it was hot as the hottest part of hell.

Castle Hill - most famous and accessible view point in town. Although locals say that the best spot for the picnic is Mont Boron, you have to take a bus there and then walk a lot up on the mountain, and then there are no shops around if you want to buy something fresh, no street lights and rumors say not even public toilets. A real forest I shall say. And it is, I'm sure, a lovely place and absolutely in my bucket list but just not this time. I need to be more prepared for it. 

So, I chose Castle Hill for a picnic.

 On the very top you'll find a green field between the trees and this - this is the golden spot. You can see Nice and the sea but still be a bit private. 

*

"That's unfair! You could give me a hand out of your gentleman-ess." I yell after losing a game in chess. Again. 

"No, I respect you too much, love".

"I give you permission to respect me a bit less."

It's an old joke of ours that we stole from "Outlander" and repeating over and over again because I can’t beat him. It is easier to play with Duolingo (not of much use as it seems).

We are sitting in a lovely scene. Food, wine and polaroids are splashed around us on a flowered blanket.  

If you'll need a list of what to take/do for the picnic on the hill, here's one:

1. Go to Monop (near Galerie Lafayette). Buy water, fruits, cheese, baguette, Rose and any snacks you like. It is waaay cheaper (and sometimes better) than any shop in the Old Town).

2. Use toilets in Lafayette (sorry for non-aesthetic advice but there's a real problem with public toilets in Nice).

3. There's Flying Tiger (Danish shop with different curiosities) and Librairie Massena (bookshop) right on the street between Lafayette and Monop. There you can find some fun stuff for your picnic if you haven't brought yours. Games, coloring items etc.

4. Grab a pizza at La Storia. It is close to Castle Hill.

5.Survive the hike. Kidding but just slightly, it is not an Everest climb, by any means, but if you are not into sports it can be just a bit breathtaking. Especially with the heat. There's an elevator on the side, it just wasn't working when I was there.

 *

"We watch the sunset over the castle on the hill." - that's Ed Sheeran's lyrics that plays in my head as we are watching pre sunset on Castle Hill. It is an absolutely fabulous view. At this time of the day the Mediterranean looks in new colors. Literally.

You can't really catch a full  sunset as this park closes at 20.00. Unless you're coming in winter, then you'll get to see it.

At 20.00 sharp we came down from the hill and began our walk towards the port where we could catch the proper sunset. The sea now reached its peak of beauty, not that it can be unbeautiful at any point but during the sunsets, when the moon is full and high, and big like in the fairytales, the sea has every color of every season.

We walk home through buzzling city. I don't really like crowded and loud places but here ... Well, here I enjoy it. The powerful energy that runs through the veins of the city is contagious. On each and every corner there's music and dancing. You know this old movie where one stranger takes another stranger by the hand, then  another and in the blink of an eye you're dancing in the circle to an unfamiliar song but nonetheless it is somehow the most fun thing ever. 

*

Later I was sitting on the same rooftop terrace I'm sitting on every night when I'm here. It is midnight and I'm searching for the new constellation. Dragon. It is big and I can't really put all the stars in the right order to see the full picture. It is darker here, outside of the city center, but still not pitch dark to see all the stars but certainly more that I can see up the North at home, so I'm satisfied enough. 

And the starfall. August is a time for starfall. I actually never saw so many stars falling during one night. Every night. It feels like time has stopped. Well, if this is not a sign of a perfect day I don’t know what it is. 

Hope you enjoyed our little journey, dear reader.

...

P.S. Here're photos of that very bookstore and the best latte.