PERRELET LAB PERIPHERAL 3-HANDS & DATE

Introduction

Abram Louys Perrelet (widely known as Abraham-Louis) was born in Le Locle, Neuchâtel in 1729. His father was a farmer and a talented craftsman who was known to have made quality tools for watchmakers. Abraham-Louis’s ambitions, however, lay way beyond woodworking and toiling the land. In his teens, he embarked on an apprenticeship with a local watchmaker named Prince. This brief encounter proved frustrating for Perrelet, in part due to his employer’s questionable work ethic. It did, however, ignite such a desire in him that he embarked on a journey to become a watchmaker in his own right. His natural aptitude, innovative creations and technical prowess won him the respect of his peers and, in turn, an illustrious clientele.

It is for his work as one of the founding fathers of automatic watches that Perrelet will forever be remembered. His ground-breaking invention utilised a side weight to create power from motion and he is widely credited with being the first watchmaker to create the self-winding watch back in 1777. News of Perrelet’s work spread throughout Europe and it wasn’t long before the great Abraham-Louis Breguet heard of his invention and acquired a number of his watches. Another watchmaker, Hubert Sarton from Belgium, improved on Perrelet’s invention and was the first to supply accurate drawings and a full description of a self-winding watch with a rotor, rather than just a weight-driven mechanism. Breguet used elements from both designs to further his own watchmaking knowledge, successfully marketing his new pieces as ‘Perpétuelle’. Given the era, all of these ingenious movements were housed within pocket watches. Indeed, it was 1926 before the first wristwatch with an automatic winding rotor appeared at Baselworld when Fortis announced their Harwood Automatic.

In the early 90s the name of Perrelet was revived. Enlisting the help of Paul Gerber, a Master Watchmaker from The Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), the company set to work on the concept of a dial side / double rotor to celebrate Perrelet’s illustrious heritage. The first pieces produced by the new Maison appeared in 1995 and, despite their merit, stiff competition and high development costs contributed to financial difficulties. Eventually, Perrelet was saved by the intervention of Miguel Rodriguez of the Festina Group, who acquired Perrelet in 2004. New models ensued including an array of complications such as retrogrades and jumping hours as well as the release of a new double-rotor. Perrelet had a wealth of supporting sister brands all under the Festina banner, including the highly regarded movement manufacturer, Soprod. Today, the name Perrelet is held in high esteem, creating high quality watches encompassing contemporary designs. The brand’s collections usually sit at the more affordable end of the luxury market, save for a few occasional excursions into costlier, five-figure creations such as the Turbine Tourbillon.

The ‘LAB PERIPHERAL DUAL TIME BIG DATE’ was launched in October 2021. Now, the brand has followed up with four iterations of its latest creation, the ‘LAB PERIPHERAL 3 HANDS & DATE’. This new model delivers innovative styling and uniquely animated dials, reinforcing the brand’s commitment to ‘Luxury in Movement’.

Case

The case of the Perrelet ‘LAB PERIPHERAL 3-HANDS & DATE’ is available in a choice of two finishes, stainless steel or stainless steel with a razor grey PVD coating. The latter option appears more contemporary and slightly edgy. Measuring 42mm x 42mm, the model has masculine proportions, while the cushion shape delivers a palpable sense of refinement.

The watch’s luxury credentials are enhanced by a three-part stepped construction. An octagonal bezel sits atop the case and encompasses contrasting brushwork and high polish. Despite its multiple layers and intricate profile, the watch is not unduly thick, measuring 13.5mm in height.

When viewed from the side, the case band features a fluted design which leads boldly to the short but nicely faceted lugs. On the reverse, the Perrelet ‘LAB PERIPHERAL 3-HANDS & DATE’ includes an exhibition caseback, affording sight of the movement within.

Movement

With a casual glance through the caseback, it would be easy to mistake the Calibre P411 for a hand-wound movement given there appears to be no visible rotor. However, as seen with previous models, Perrelet celebrates this component on the dial side of the watch. The three rhodium plated bridges and balance cock are finished to a high standard, with a degree of bevelling and nicely executed Côtes de Genève. Underneath the exposed golden balance wheel, the movement affords a glimpse of the rhodium finished baseplate with perlage decoration.

Beating at 4Hz (28,800 Vph), the 30 jewelled P411 movement also features ‘Incabloc’ shock protection, conferring a degree of sports watch robustness.

Dial

The dial embraces a unique design with a sea of multi-layered monochromatic concentric circles. The central base of the dial features fine vertical striping and the two coloured variants are complemented by an outer ring in either sandblasted black or brushed silver. Luminescent hour markers sit atop the outer ring and project over a channel accommodating the oscillating weight. It is this latter detail which proves especially captivating as the rotor moves to and fro as it harnesses energy from the motion of the wearer’s wrist.

Like many of its previous collections, Perrelet has placed the automatic winding rotor on the dial side, appearing so inconspicuous that you could be forgiven for missing it until it bursts into life and moves. The previously mentioned channel is circular brushed while the oscillating weight is embellished with a motif of diagonal lines granting a sense of dynamism to proceedings.

Despite sporting many layers, each complements the other, bestowing a harmonious composition. Excellent legibility is assured, courtesy of the bold silver-toned hands filled with a generous helping of Super-LumiNova.

Strap

To secure the Lab Peripheral, Perrelet has selected a black calf leather strap enlivened with contrasting white stitching. To heighten the overall perception of luxury, the strap is adorned with an alligator pattern.

A stainless steel deployant clasp makes for easy fastening. When opening the clasp, the wearer is indulged with the sight of attractive areas of perlage. The crown features the brand’s Perrelet ‘P’ logo, presented in relief.

Closing thoughts

As the popularity of wristwatches continues to increase, the shrewdest of brands look for ways to differentiate themselves in what appears to be a saturated market. Perrelet has successfully created a point of differentiation by bringing the winding rotor to the dial side of the watch. Indeed, this provides a wonderful dose of animation to the dial and a fabulous sense of fun. When coupled with the floating hour markers, and the multi-layered and textured dial components, Perrelet has created a fabulous design that is likely to endure and prove commercially successful. Furthermore, the model’s keen pricing allows it to comfortably breathe within the affordable luxury watch segment. Quite simply, this watch delivers a lot for a comparatively modest sum.

Given the significance of the Perrelet name within horological history, the ‘LAB PERIPHERAL 3-HANDS & DATE’ is a worthy addition to the brand’s collection and a fitting celebration of Perrelet’s illustrious name.