NOMOS GLASHÜTTE CLUB SPORT NEOMATIK 42 DATE BLUE

The start of my romance

In the traditional world of watchmaking, several brands have been in operation for over 100 years. Indeed, the history of some brands exceeds 200 years. NOMOS Glashütte, on the other hand, was founded in 1990, just over 30 years ago, making it relatively young by comparison. However, despite its youth and modest origins, the company has since become ‘the largest manufacturer of mechanical timepieces in Germany’. So, what is the secret to the brand’s rapid ascent and remarkable growth? Allow me to explain.

My romance with NOMOS began in 2011. Whilst attending an exhibition, I discovered the brand for the first time and I recall being immediately smitten. Each model I appraised between forefinger and thumb was beautifully understated and endowed with a pristine white dial. Moreover, unlike many of the German firm’s rivals which often used third party movements, the NOMOS models on display were fitted with the brand’s own in-house movements. And then, there was the matter of value. The watch firm from Saxony was offering beautiful timepieces for remarkably keen prices.

Commentators at the time talked at length about the brand’s predilection for Bauhaus design. However, the composition of each watch also subscribed to the traditions of the Deutscher Werkbund. This latter movement harks back to 1907. It united craftspeople, artisans and architects in the pursuit of one common objective, namely, combining good design and craftsmanship when making mass produced goods and architectural structures.

Such was my affection for NOMOS and its products, I brought them to the attention of my wife and daughter. When their respective birthdays arrived, I duly gave them a Tangente model each. On a couple of occasions, I have purchased a replacement strap for each watch, but otherwise, they have never missed a beat, serving both my wife and daughter admirably.

Design

NOMOS is known for producing watches that successfully blend form and function. Indeed, part of the attraction of models such as the Ludwig, the Orion and the Tangente is that they eschew any unnecessary adornments, conversing with the wearer with a highly intelligible voice.

However, perhaps wishing to avoid being typecast, NOMOS has also unveiled new models which look different from their forebears. The Lambda and Lux, housed in gold cases, feature high-end finishing and even have some hand engraving adorning their balance cocks. With the advent of these models, NOMOS informed the watch collecting community that it was not limited to making just one genre of watch, but potentially several.

In 2014, NOMOS unveiled the Metro Date Power Reserve, a watch style conceived by external designer, Mark Braun. Again, it was different from its siblings, courtesy of the judicious inclusion of white, red, black and mint-green hues. On one hand, the Metro looked new, yet it was still recognisable as a NOMOS. In my opinion, this has contributed to the NOMOS success story, ie creating watches that look new, but reassuringly familiar at the same time.

When the first Autobahn left the confines of the company’s Glashütte Manufactory and burst onto the watch scene, I freely admit I was shocked. The model displayed hours, minutes, small seconds and the date. However, with its concave dial and centrally positioned, curved band of colour, the Autobahn was, and remains, radically different from any other watch on the market and yet, somehow it still looks like a NOMOS.

Interestingly, the caliber DUW 6101 is at the heart of the Autobahn, a self-winding movement that is now widely used in numerous references. Ordinarily, the date display on most watches should not be adjusted between 2000 hours – 0300 hours ie a 7-hour window (model dependent). However, with the caliber DUW 6101, there are just 90 minutes each day when the date must not be altered. Moreover, the 3-position crown allows the wearer to rotate it in either direction and perform rapid date changes. As well as the Autobahn neomatik, the caliber DUW 6101 also features in the Ludwig neomatik and Tangente 41 Update. Both of these latter models also feature a date display, albeit they are presented in different forms. The date disc is positioned to the outer edge of the movement and, in turn, the outside edge of the dial. This has allowed NOMOS to include a larger than normal date display, augmenting readability.

In recent years, NOMOS Glashütte has changed the perception of the watch-buying public. No longer is the company viewed solely as a purveyor of monochrome designs. Today, the German marque is also a keen advocate of ebullient shades, sometimes adding liberal splashes of luminescent treatment to a dial design, proffering extra eye-appeal and lucidity. Moreover, the Saxony-based firm has been willing to play with contours, placing indications in non-standard locations.

Quite simply, NOMOS is a multi-talented company that can play many roles with aplomb. Indeed, its design prowess has been recognised on several occasions with the award of many prizes and silverware.

Club Sport neomatik 42 Date Black

When NOMOS Glashütte released the Club Sport Neomatik 42 date black, again I was surprised. Save for the Tangente Sport, most versions of the Tangente have tended to look lean, somewhat dressy and are usually water-resistant to 3 ATM. The Club Sport Neomatik 42 date black sets aside the stylised Arabic numerals of the Tangente, still exhibits a degree of formality, albeit it’s more lounge suit than black tie, and, most notably, it’s water-resistant to 30 ATM.

The dial of the neomatik 42 date black is dressed in a brooding, sultry shade of black, the polar opposite of the chaste-white complexion synonymous with Tangente ownership. Furthermore, the Horween Shell Cordovan strap that’s extensively used by the brand is supplanted with a new metal bracelet.

Some time after its release, my colleague, Mark McArthur Christie, wrote extensively about this watch. In his feature it was clear he felt genuine affection for the model.

Now, the German marque is back with another new reference, the NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport neomatik 42 date blue. Recently, I was provided with a sample of the model and had the opportunity to get hands-on.

Club Sport neomatik 42 Date Blue – the dial

Many watch brands release ‘animations’ of existing models. A simple change of dial colour and ‘voila’, a new reference. Well, as its name implies, this latest model from NOMOS has a blue dial, however, it brings much more to the table than this may imply. Allow me to elaborate.

Like the Club Sport Neomatik 42 date black, the hands are broad and lined with luminescent treatment. The hour track features a combination of plump Arabic numerals and crisp rectangular batons. Consistent with the hour and minute hands, the hour markers have also received a liberal application of Super-LumiNova. A minuterie sits just beyond the hour track, hugging the interior walls of the case. NOMOS has employed a combination of svelte white strokes marking each minute, while Arabic numerals, in a two-digit format, are presented at 5-minute intervals.

A snailed, recessed subdial, sits at 6 o’clock while a date display is located at 3 o’clock. With many watch brands the ‘bean-counters’ dictate that one date disc should fit all. However, NOMOS has clearly rejected such penny-pinching, choosing to match the date disc with the colour of the dial as horological etiquette dictates. Moreover, the scale of the date display would rival some so-called ‘big date’ displays which utilise two date discs. Indeed, the readability of the date on this latest model is beyond reproach.

Unlike Club Sport neomatik 42 date black, the dial on this version is endowed with a prominent sunburst motif. In my opinion, this provides an additional dose of elegance to proceedings.

Club Sport neomatik 42 Date Blue – the case

Measuring 42mm in diameter, the NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport neomatik 42 date blue has presence but without being cumbersome. There are watches on the market which have greater water-resistance, but invariably they come with additional bulk. An attribute of the NOMOS is that its construction and water-resistance of 30 ATM confer a high degree of robustness and practicality whilst remaining genteel and tasteful.

A significant improvement found with this model is the introduction of a new 3-rows bracelet. The German firm has juxtaposed polished and brushed surfaces throughout the case, extending this approach to the bracelet as well. The central row evinces a brilliantly polished gleam, heightening the overall sense of luxury.

I found some of the early NOMOS bracelets a tad fiddly to put on and adjust, however, no such criticisms can be directed towards this latest model. It’s fitted with a twin-blade deployant and the clasp closes with a reassuringly positive click.

The crown is equipped with a wonderful detail. When it is pulled out, for example when changing the date, a red circlet comes into view, reminding the wearer to push the crown home afterwards in order to prevent ingress of dust and moisture. The brand from Saxony always seems to pay close attention to the minutiae.

To the rear of the watch, the caseback is equipped with a pane of sapphire crystal, affording views of the self-winding movement.

Club Sport neomatik 42 Date Blue – the movement

This latest model is fitted with the Caliber DUW 6101, a self-winding movement that appears in several of the brand’s models. As stated earlier, this is an in-house movement featuring the brand’s neomatic date mechanism. The system allows the wearer to rotate the crown in either direction and make rapid date changes.

Upholding Glashütte tradition, the movement features a three-quarter plate. This approach confers greater stability when contrasted with multiple bridges. In a similar vein, the NOMOS features a balance bridge, secured at two points, rather than a balance cock retained with just one screw.

The three-quarter plate and balance bridge are rhodium-plated and adorned with Glashütte ribbing. They also feature golden text and thermally blued screws, while the mainplate is embellished with perlage.

An interesting characteristic of the Caliber DUW 6101 is its slender profile, measuring just 3.6mm in height, affording the brand more options when incorporating it within other watch designs. Indeed, by using the same movement in several references, NOMOS is able to achieve economies of scale, allowing the firm to deliver an impressive quality-price ratio.

Throughout its history, NOMOS has strived to be increasingly independent. In 2014, the German brand unveiled the Metro, powered with a movement containing the NOMOS ‘swing system’. This latter term is used to describe the escapement or assortment. This mechanism controls the flow of time, releasing precise doses of energy to the gear train and ultimately the motion works.

Most companies purchase escapements from third-party specialists, however, NOMOS chose to embark on a difficult journey by creating its own ‘swing system’. One of the most challenging components to make is the balance spring as it must deliver rate consistency and remain unaffected by temperature changes. When making balance springs, the tolerances are measured in nanometers (1nm = 0.000001mm). Needless to say, production processes must be strictly controlled.

Moreover, the balance spring has to work in empathy with the balance wheel, hence the technical challenges don’t simply end with the balance spring. Indeed, every element of the swing system has to be carefully considered and designed to work in harmony.

Another factor that contributes to the overall slenderness of the Caliber DUW 6101 is the design of the gear train. When it developed this movement, NOMOS looked closely at the various movement components, including the gear train. Comprised of several wheels, the gear train transfers energy from the spring barrel to the escapement. Most gear trains are not very efficient. Indeed, the industry average is approximately 80% efficiency. In order to compensate for this loss of power, the norm is to equip the movement with a larger barrel, however, this makes the movement bigger.

NOMOS expended much effort looking at the order, angle and number of teeth on each wheel of the gear train, keen to improve its efficiency. Ultimately, the brand’s work led to a gear train efficiency of 94.2%. This allowed the brand to fit a smaller barrel and, by default, reduce the height of the movement. While the NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport neomatik 42 date blue is hardly ultra-thin, measuring 10.2mm in height, the slender profile of the Caliber DUW 6101 makes the movement suitable for use in a number of watches, including some of the brand’s slimmer timepieces.

Closing remarks

In recent years, NOMOS has shown a desire to explore its creativity, unveiling new designs which often incorporate delightful idiosyncratic details. However, despite sometimes embracing avant-garde styles and playfully employing vibrant shades, the German firm cleverly innovates new models which still retain a family likeness.

Irrespective of the model selected, all NOMOS timepieces exhibit notable style, the dials clearly enunciate the time and each movement is always endued with a high level of mechanical integrity. While NOMOS makes a number of different calibres, it has incorporated the Caliber DUW 6101 within several references and I suspect this is one reason why the brand delivers an impressive quality-price ratio.

Prior to receiving the sample of the NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport neomatik 42 date blue, I always suspected that I would like it, however, I didn’t expect it to look or feel any different from the Club Sport Neomatik 42 date black I had already worn. But it does. Indeed, the blue dial with its sunray motif and the fabulous three-rows bracelet confers a different appearance yet still looks reassuringly like a NOMOS.