How to Dress: Punk

A brief history.

Punk fashion first emerged in the mid-1970s in London, England, used as an anarchic and aggressive movement by a disillusioned youth. The younger generation found the "The Establishment " - a name used to refer to the Government - oppressive and outdated, choosing to imbue freedom and rebellion into their way of dressing.

For the most part, this stylistic choice was embraced by the working class, who were facing the highest levels of employment since the 1940's. They cut up old clothes from charity shops, adding studs, zips and patches to create bold pieces. This display of creative expression, deeply rooted in their truth, starkly went against the norm. As a result it hooked the public's attention but also sunk their approval also in some cases.

Below are a few of the iconic pieces of Punk fashion over the years you can add into your wardrobe.

• Dr Martens.

Did you know that when Dr Martens first came out, 80% of their stock went to women over 40 who wore them for harsh outdoor work? Along with these working women, Pete Townshend of The Who, Johnny Rotten of the Sex Pistols and even the Dalai Llama have all been seen rocking this choice of footwear. Dubbed the great 'f-off boot', Punks used the aggresive associations of Dr Martens and made it into their own, painting the boots different colours and customising the laces. The love for these shoes was big, but perhaps not as big as the pair Elton John wore on stage, measuring 137cm tall.

The sleekness of the boots pairs well with drainpipe trousers, or skinny jeans to ensure every eyelet is on display. Add on a pair of braces, a tartan shirt, and you've got one hell of a too-cool-for-school outfit. Alternatively, the masculine design of Dr Martens pairs fabulously with more feminine fabrics such as lace, or even shapes found in a ditsy floral tea dress.

• Graphic Tees.

Graphic tees were worn religiously by younger members of society, as they were a way to express their allegiance to their favourite bands at the time, and also hold a finger up to "The Establishment." Something interesting I learned while writing this piece was that for the band The Ramones, t-shirts always brought in more revenue than selling their records. Given music’s history in activism, the band tee (depending on the artist emblazoned upon it) was a way to combat social injustice and (especially in the 1960s and 1970s) demand the end of the longstanding war in Vietnam.

Quite notably, Vivienne Westwood & Malcom McLaran designed and sold provocative t-shirts, outing criminals and showcasing eroticism from their shop in Kings Road, Chelsea. Controversial words such as "PERV" SCUM" and "ROCK" were printed across the chest of these pieces, capturing the discontent and courage of society.

A great thing about graphic t-shirts is that you don't have to search far and wide for them. They're probably more closer than you think, and I'm so certain you could find one you like in a charity shop or even better, from a family member. This piece of clothing is so great because of its versatility. It can be paired down with some jeans, scuffed converse and a denim jacket, or elevated by adding in leather pieces and jewellery.

• White Shirt and a Tie.

A plain white cotton shirt was one of the few things that Punks didn't distress. But, they made sure to scruff it up a little. Skinny ties and a white shirt were a popular on-stage outfit, broadening the scope of which this accessory was worn. Legend has it skinny ties were introduced to the market because dressmakers ran out of material, but of course with notable musicians such as The Beatles and The Kinks donning them, the problem looked like it could repeat itself soon enough.

Another option were kipper ties. Sometimes wide as 6 inches, tartan and plaid were popular patterns to be worn around the neck. Old school ties were also messily worn, perhaps seen as a direct mockery of the educational system or even regarded as a subtle, perhaps murky acknowledgement of what was deemed smart by society.

A white shirt and a tie of course pairs wonderfully under a suit, but don't forget suit trousers aren't the only smart trousers out there. Chinos are also a good option. As well as that, it can also be tucked into a high waisted pencil skirt or even a maxi skirt for a more feminine look.

• Leather.

Leather was, and still is, a piece of clothing a lot of us like to wear until it becomes a second skin. It could be in jacket form, trouser form, on one's feet or even as a belt, this material was a staple item worn. The leather jacket in particular proved to be something that could be customised to the individuals liking - freedom they collectively yearned for.

Before the 70s, the piece of clothing was exclusively considered to be something worn only by men. Leave it to the ladies of the punk scene to wear it and show society the promising adaptability. Again DIY customisation made the jacket a punk jacket, seperating this movement from the rest of society.

Other leather pieces that were highly favoured were leather pants with cut outs around the bottom thanks to Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren or black leather belts, covered in pointed silver spuds.

A leather jacket is a perfect addition to an all-black look, whether the jacket be black or another colour. Try pairing a washed leather jacket over a faded t-shirt for a vintage feel or adding a smooth leather jacket over a jumper to get a juxtaposition in fabrics.

• Tartan.

Tartan was the ultimate pattern for Punks to wear. It was once outlawed in an attempt to quash Scottish pride—and any chances of rebellion against the English. Interestingly enough, it was the Queen Victoria who fell in love with it, and thus the association with upper crust society was born.

Punk being an "anti” movement—anti-consumerist, anti-conformist, and anti-establishment, took this political fabric and leaned into long-standing associations with rebellion. The seams of tartan shirts were ripped, incorporated into bondage wear and other quirky uses, showcasing a direct reflection of their anger and frustration to society.

There are so many ways to wear tartan. You can go all out in a tartan suit, or incoporate it in a muted sense by way of a shirt. There's even tartan socks on the market which are a fun option to try.

Wrapping up.

Punk fashion explosively annouced itself on the scene, taking up space in society. Frustration bled through marker pens, indiviudality gleamed from piercings and perspective decorated the back of a leather jacket. This movement showed courage speaking up and if all else fails, go DIY to get your message across.

Thank you for reading, and I hope you gained some inspiration from this piece!