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Dog Grooming Hacks n' Facts

Some facts you may not know about your best friend

By ChristenPublished 2 years ago 8 min read
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I won't bore you with an excruciating intro to skip through! I'll save that for the end, so here you go :).

1. CUT THOSE NAILS

No, this is not a "tip". This is common knowledge. But, I do want to tell you why.

https://pawlapidary.com/pages/how-to-trim-your-dog-s-nails-safely

When your dogs' nails begin to grow from the time they are born. The vein inside of the dogs' toenail, known as the quick, grows with it. When the nail has reached a length that scrapes the ground it can cause deformation of the foot, as pictured above. Certain dogs will naturally have longer or shorter quicks depending on genetics and will grow at different speeds. However, the typical nail trim should be performed every 1-3 weeks. If you are nervous about clipping your own dogs' nails at home you can invest in a dremel. I will link a few of my favorites below!

Your next question may be, "But, how do I know when to stop dremeling?"

It will be easiest for you to flip the foot backward in a comfortable direction for your dog. That way you can see the nail properly. When you begin to dremel it may feel awkward as if it's going to flip out of your hand when you press on the nail. It does take practice, it may slip off the dogs' nail, but don't fret, this is completely normal. You can stabilize the dremel by putting your thumb on the dogs' paw pad. Don't put too much pressure, as you can subconsciously begin to squeeze the foot too hard and it will become painful.

https://milesandemma.com/how-to-dremel-dog-nails/

When you begin to see a circle forming in the center of your dogs' toenail, that will indicate that you are getting close to the quick and should stop. Some dogs have what is known as "false quick" meaning the dot will be present, but you can still take a lot off the dogs' nails. However, I would leave that determination to the professionals.

If you have a long-haired breed, be sure to pull the hair back away from the foot so it does not wrap the hair up in the dremel. If this does happen, I've found that using an animal-safe oil will cause the hair to become slick. and unraveling the hair will be easier.

2. USE PAW CLEANER

Paws collect not only germs and bacteria but also can harbor yeast in the hair (Frito Feet), giving your dogs' foot a chippy smell. Some breeds are more prone to yeast infections, but all dogs should have their feet cleaned regularly. If your dog has itchy feet you may use Witch Hazel to calm the irritation and dissuade licking. If your dogs' feet are simply dry and cracking I would not recommend Witch Hazel as it does have drying properties, being an astringent.

If you notice flaking on your dogs' paws and nose, they may have hyperkeratosis. Hyperkeratosis is the excessive production of keratin, a protein that makes up fur and nails.

If the hyperkeratosis gets excessive on your dog, you will most likely have to make a vet visit to get the bulk of it removed. If you notice a small patch beginning to flare up, you can use creams and lotions to soften the area. If you have a long-haired breed, shaving out the paw pad may help with yeast infections, refrain if the paws are too irritated as this can cause razor burn or even more regrowth irritation.

I will list some of my favorites below.

Once you have applied the cream you can put socks or booties on your dog to enhance the absorption process.

3. CLEAN YOUR YUCKY EARS!

Ear cleaning is very different depending on breed. Typically, dogs with vertical open ears are less prone to infection, and may not need as much maintenance as a floppy ear long-haired breed. If you have a short-haired breed, your instructions will be simple. You really only need two things. 1. Ear Cleaner 2. Cotton Pads. I wouldn't recommend using q-tips in your dogs' ears, even if you are confident in your abilities. You never know when your dog will shake his head, which could damage the ear canal if the q-tip is in your dogs' ear when they shake.

Now, for you long-haired breeds. I'm talking to the poodle and cocker owners here! Cockers are notorious for getting constant ear infections, from the weight of their ears and density of their hair, it is vital to keep their ears clean! A 3rd step will need to be taken when cleaning out your dogs' ears and that is hair removal. Start small and slow, you will also need an ear hair powder. It has a drying effect on the hair, making it easier to grip, and making it less painful for your dog since the hair is no longer weighed down or sticky. I would recommend just using your fingers, you can take very small amounts of hair and gently pull it out of the ears. If your dog is new to this, they may put up a fuss. Because, who wants their ear hair ripped out? However, it is better than taking a monthly trip to the vet due to hair buildup and infections.

https://www.poodleforum.com/threads/what-you-dont-want-in-a-poodle-ear.278588/

Do Not pluck from the outer canal or the flap of the ear. These hairs have much deeper more secure roots that will be painful to pluck. I will list some of my favorite ear powders and cleaners below.

4. Matts Matts Matts

This section is for my long-haired babies! Have you ever taken your fluffy dog to the groomer and embarrassingly picked your new naked mole-rat. Well, I know YOU know, you need to brush your dog. You own a long-haired breed thus it is your responsibility to brush them, or you can learn to love the mole-rat do. I am going to be telling you exactly what brush type will be best for your breed, as well as some tips that will really impress your groomer.

Curly Coats

Hey there Poodle and Doodle owners! Here are my top comb and brush recommendations for your hair type. I will always recommend a basic metal comb, these are cheap and as thorough as they come. Make sure when you comb, you are reaching all the way to your dogs' skin, not only brushing the surface hair. A slicker brush will do wonders in fluffing your dogs' coat. If you love how poofy and round they look after a groom, invest in a slicker brush to keep the hair separated and straight. If you are washing your dog at home, you can use a wet brush after you apply conditioner to brush it through the hair and get the maximum benefits of your products. I will list my favorites below!

Straight Coats

Hello, my gorgeous drop-coated friends. Your recommendations will be slightly different but not by much. A basic metal comb will be your best friend for life! Remember to always get to the base of your dogs' skin so you don't miss any possible matting. I would not recommend using a slicker brush on these breeds, typically straight hair is much thinner, you also do not need to straighten curls. If you have a curly straight mix you may need to get a slicker. I would strongly advise getting a wet brush for this breed. You can use it wet or dry, when the dog is wet, you will apply the conditioner as stated above and use the brush to evenly distribute your product.

TIPS THAT WILL MAKE YOUR GROOMER LOVE YOU!

Many pet owners brush their dogs rigorously but miss several problem spots along the way.

Keep these spots in mind when brushing daily.

Armpits - A spot usually shaved out by your groomer, very fast to matt up due to heavy friction. Can become painful for the dog if the matts are pulling the skin together, making walking uncomfortable.

Inner Legs - This is a very sensitive spot, the skin is thinner, and matts are quick to form due to sleeping patterns and moisture buildup. Many inner legs are shaved due to excessive matting.

Cheeks/Muzzle - The shape of your dog's face entirely depends on the haircut your dog gets. If the muzzle and cheeks are matted, the whole face may need to be shaved or spot shaved. This area will always be hard to keep up with, after meals, or even a drink of water, tangles begin to take hold.

Sanitary Area and Paw Pads - You will need to be very gentle in these areas. Typically long-haired breeds have their sanitary areas shaved or trimmed. Paw pads are usually shaved as well. However, between grooms, the hair on your dogs' pads can become matted. I will compare this to always walking with a rock in your shoe. The sanitary area can matt-up easily due to the constant moisture retention and licking. Comb through these areas gently but often to keep your dog happy and healthy.

I promise if you go to your groomer and NONE of these areas are matted, you will win brownie points and your dog may even be done faster if your groomer is not solely focused on demating.

5. Here is that boring intro I promised you

Thank you so much for reading! I love pet owners who are constantly trying to better themselves in the care of their pets! I have been personally been a dog groomer for 5 years and I am constantly learning! I started bathing at PetSmart and later went on to teach myself how to style pets off Youtube. I then began working for Petco for several years. I now work for a private grooming and boarding facility in Maryland. You are never too old to learn new things. If you are interested in following my grooming journey or my pets you can follow us on instagram!

https://www.instagram.com/christen.grooms/?hl=en

https://www.instagram.com/luke_lola_lincoln/?hl=en

Have a Great Day! <3

grooming
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About the Creator

Christen

The splatter of words my brain spits forth.

Insta:christen.grooms

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