I Was Forty-One and Spectacularly Bad at Something. It Turned Out to Be the Point.
What a summer of falling off a board in front of strangers taught me about competence, fear, and the surprisingly high cost of always knowing what you are doing.
There is a specific kind of comfort that arrives somewhere in your late thirties, and almost nobody warns you how expensive it is.
You get good at your job. You know how your car handles. You know which restaurant to pick, how to talk to a difficult colleague, how long the chicken needs. You move through your week as a competent adult, and the last time you were truly, publicly, embarrassingly bad at something was probably in a school gym hall in the nineties.
That comfort feels like success. I have come to think it is closer to a slow leak.
I found this out in the least dignified way possible: by spending an entire summer falling off a board in front of strangers.
The Decision Was Not Brave. It Was Mostly a Tuesday.
I want to be honest about the origin story, because these essays always pretend there was a moment of clarity. There was not. There was a Tuesday in April, a bad week at work, and a video on my phone of someone gliding across water with no engine, no sail rope, no visible means of support, in complete silence.
The sport was wing foiling. You hold an inflatable wing in your hands, you stand on a board with an underwater hydrofoil bolted beneath it, and when you get enough speed the whole board lifts out of the water and you fly about sixty centimetres above the surface.
It looked, and this is the important part, easy.
I mentioned it to my wife in the tone of someone floating a joke that could be retracted. She said, "So do it." Which is the most dangerous sentence in a marriage.
Nobody Tells You How Loud the Falling Is
Here is what the first day is actually like.
You get the board out. It is bigger than you expected and it wants to be somewhere else. You inflate the wing. You walk into the water, and immediately the wing catches a gust and drags you sideways past a family building sandcastles.
Then you try to stand up.
I did not stand up on day one. I did not stand up on day two either. On day three I stood up for perhaps four seconds and fell backwards onto the board with a slapping noise that carried, I am fairly sure, to the car park.
What I remember most clearly is not the water. It is the sound. Falling is loud. It is a flat, comic, unmistakable noise, and everybody on the beach hears it, and every single time it happens you surface and do a quick scan to see who was watching.
That scan is the thing. That reflex — the automatic check for witnesses — is what most adults have organised their entire lives to avoid triggering. We do not take up new sports at forty. We do not sing. We do not dance at weddings until a socially agreed quantity of wine has removed the scanning function. We have quietly arranged our world so that we are never seen being bad.
I spent about two weeks unable to stop scanning.
And then something happened that I did not expect: it wore off. Not through courage. Through sheer repetition. You cannot maintain self-consciousness across four hundred consecutive failures. The brain simply files it under normal and moves on to more useful problems, like where your board has drifted to.
The Plateau, and What Lives Inside It
Everyone in the sport told me the same number. Ten sessions. Ten sessions and you will fly.
Session ten came and went. So did eleven and twelve. I was standing, riding along on the water, doing everything I had been told, and the board stayed resolutely stuck to the surface like a stubborn dog.
This was the genuinely hard part. Not the humiliation, which had burned off. The plateau. The stretch where you are objectively putting in the work and objectively not improving, and the only thing available to you is faith that a process you cannot perceive is happening somewhere underneath.
I nearly quit twice. Both times on the drive home, both times specifically at the roundabout by the petrol station, which I have come to think of as the place where hobbies go to die.
Here is what I did instead, and it is the only advice in this whole piece I would defend as universal: I stopped measuring progress by the outcome and started measuring it by the input. Not "did I fly today" but "did I go." That is a small, almost insultingly simple reframe. It kept me in the sport for another three weeks, which turned out to be exactly how long I needed.
The Silence
Session nineteen. Late afternoon, side-onshore wind, water the colour of weak tea.
I got up, got moving, pumped the board the way I had been shown maybe two hundred times, and then the noise stopped.
That is the honest description. There is a constant rattle and slap when a board is on the water, a texture you stop noticing because it is always there. And then it is gone. The rattle disappears, the board rises, and you are simply moving, quietly, above the surface, with nothing touching the water except a thin blade you cannot see.
I flew for maybe six seconds. I made a noise I have not made since childhood.
Then I fell, extremely hard, and did not care even slightly.
What It Actually Fixed
I want to be careful here, because the internet is drowning in people explaining how a hobby cured them, and this is not that.
Wing foiling did not fix my life. It did three smaller things that turned out to matter more than I expected.
It restored my tolerance for being a beginner. Since that summer I have started learning an instrument, badly, and taken on work I was not qualified for. Not because I became brave, but because the specific fear of visible incompetence had been sanded down to something manageable. It turns out that fear is trainable, and the training is simply doing the thing in public until your nervous system gets bored.
It gave me a form of attention I had lost. You cannot think about email while balancing on a hydrofoil. The sport demands your entire processing capacity, which means for two hours the low background hum of adult worry is not switched off so much as evicted. I have tried meditating. This works better, at least for me, because it does not permit the option of drifting.
It reintroduced physical exhaustion — the good kind, from something that felt like play rather than obligation. I slept better that summer than I had in a decade, and I never once had to persuade myself to go.
A Few Practical Notes, Since Nobody Gave Me Any
Pick something with a steep, honest learning curve. Not something you will be adequate at in a weekend. The value is in the struggle, so choose a sport that will genuinely refuse you for a while.
Get instruction early, not late. I wasted three weeks inventing my own technique before a two-hour lesson corrected four things at once. The people who progress fastest are almost never the most athletic. They are the ones who asked.
Do not buy the advanced version of anything. This is the mistake everyone makes, including me. I nearly bought a small, fast board because it looked like the boards people I admired were riding. A larger, more forgiving board would have saved me a month. When I finally sorted out my kit properly, the thing that helped most was not a website but a conversation with people who actually ride — which is why I ended up ordering through EASY-surfshop rather than the cheapest listing I could find. Someone talked me out of a purchase that would have flattered my ego and slowed me down. That is worth paying for.
Expect the roundabout. There will be a drive home where the sensible thing seems to be to stop. Recognise it as a stage rather than a verdict.
The Part I Keep Coming Back To
Somewhere in August, a boy of about eleven was learning on the same beach. He fell constantly, exactly as I did, and the difference between us was total: he did not scan the beach once. Not one time. It had not yet occurred to him that falling was information about his worth.
We lose that. Gradually, reasonably, for defensible social reasons, we trade it for competence and dignity and knowing which restaurant to pick.
I am not sure the trade is as good as it looks. What I know is that I got a piece of it back, for the price of a summer and a great deal of swallowed lake water, and I would pay it again.
The scanning reflex is still there. It is just quieter now. And most of the interesting things I have done since have been on the other side of it.
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