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The Amazing Sherpa Who Reached the Summit of Everest First

Tenzing Norgay, Hillary's unsung hero

By Sam H ArnoldPublished 2 years ago 5 min read
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Norgay and Hillary on Everest - Free to use

Many people know the story of Edmund Hillary reaching the summit of Everest. What few people knew until recently was that Hillary may not have been the first person to reach the top.

During the climb, Hillary was accompanied by his friend Sherpa Tenzing Norgay. In an event similar to that of the moon landing. Everyone remembers the name of Armstrong, few knowing the name of the man who piloted the craft to the moon. Norgay was until recently another unsung hero that few people had heard of. More people know the names of those that perished on the mountain, than the guide that supported Hillary in his quest.

Hillary and Norgay - Free to use

Who is Tenzing Norgay

Norgay was born either in Nepal or Tibet; versions vary; everyone is sure that he was born beneath the Himilayas. Norgay was born under the name of Namgyal Wangdi in 1914.

Norgay was the eleventh child in a family of thirteen. He spent his childhood in Kharta, Tibet. As a young boy, he would run away from home repeatedly, each time he tried to go on a mountaineering adventure in various countries.

When his father took him to Lama Rongbuk Monastery, he changed his name to Tenzing Norgay. The name translates to mean a wealthy fortunate follower of religion. He worked in a monastery as a monk, which he failed. At the end of this, he was sent to work with a Sherpa family in Khumbu. As a Sherpa, his love of mountaineering was developed.

Norgay grew up revering in the mighty mountain and became eager to explore the legendary peak. Sherpa's display a knack for understanding mountains; they make exceptional guides.

Tenzing Norgay - Free to use

Climbing Everest

In 1935, Norgay got his first trip up Everest he was just twenty years old. He worked as a guide to Eric Shipton, a British climber who failed to reach the summit of Everest. For the next twenty years, he would accompany many expeditions; none were successful. Nevertheless, by the time he was forty, he had climbed the mountain more than any other person.

In 1953, he was employed on the ninth expedition of Everest. This time British Army Colonel John Hunt led the trip. He had been given the job ahead of Eric Shipton as it was thought his military leadership skills would ensure the mission's success.

Four hundred people climbed as part of the team. Most of these were porters and sherpas that carried between them ten thousand pounds of luggage. Two months after starting the climb, the group established a base camp at South Col, twenty-five thousand feet above sea level. From here, small teams would attempt to reach the summit.

By howling red on Unsplash

Norgay and Hillary's Friendship

Just before starting the expedition, Hillary slipped whilst scaling a wall; he would have fallen into a deep crevasse if it had not been for the skill of Norgay. Norgay saved his life by securing his rope with an ice axe. It was an incident that cemented their friendship.

If Norgay hadn't responded in time, I would've surely hit the bottom of the chasm and smash[ed] into smithereens.- Hillary

It was obvious then, when it was Hillary's turn to try to reach the summit after several other small teams had failed, that he chose his friend and climbing partner Norgay to go with him.

On 29th March 1953 at 1130am, the pair reached the summit. At the top, the pair took photos to authenticate they had reached the peak. Hillary took a picture of his friend with an ice axe but refused a photo himself. Fifteen minutes later, they started their descent to inform the world they had reached the summit.

Norgay and Hillary - Free to use

Hillary hailed a hero.

Both refused to say which one had reached the summit first. However, as the media clambered for their story, they chose to praise New Zealander Hillary. As a result, Hillary got all the publicity whilst Norgay was treated as nothing more than a guide. Hillary even had parts of the mountain named after him.

Colonel Hunt certainly wasn't drawn into this. From the moment he was asked about the first person to climb Mount Everest, he always gave the same answer: 

They reached it together. As a team.

The Queen knighted Hillary, whilst Norgay received nothing more than a medal for his efforts. For his part, Hillary refused to admit which of the climbers reached the summit first. Following his ascent of Everest, he devoted himself to assisting the Sherpa people of Nepal through the Himalayan Trust, which he established. His efforts are credited with the construction of many schools and hospitals in Nepal. Hillary died in 2008 of a heart attack after being hospitalised for a mountain fall.

In 2013, Norgay's grandson spoke out about this disparity: 

I think my grandfather should have been knighted. He was a member of the expedition, not just a Sherpa. They just gave him a bloody medal.

Which climber reached the summit first

Norgay died in his seventies in 1986 from chronic lung problems. Years after climbing to the summit of Everest with his best friend, he told the story of the trek.

The rope that was secured between the two climbers was six feet in length. Neither of the friends thought about who would reach the summit first, they were connected and climbing together. With the six feet between them, they climbed slow and steady, Hillary stepping onto the summit first, followed seconds later by his friend and partner Tenzing Norgay, the unsung hero that saved his life.

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About the Creator

Sam H Arnold

Writing stories to help, inspire and shock. For all my current writing projects click here - https://linktr.ee/samharnold

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  • Sandra Tena Cole11 months ago

    I love pieces of obscure history like these! This was particularly inspiring, thank you for putting it together! x

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