The Harsh Truth About Vanity Sizing

I remember the first time I encountered vanity sizing in the plus size world. I was at a mall, standing outside a women’s clothing store known for its sexy, trendy clothing. In the front window, mannequins wearing leather pants and bare shouldered tops beckoned me in.

I walked down the center aisle of the store, not sure what to look at first. I was surrounded by bold patterns, tight red pants, and plunging necklines. Against the back wall of the store, a curvy mannequin donned a black lace nightgown and thong ensemble.

I felt like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz, when everything switches from black and white to color. I've never been a frequent shopper, and this was unlike any other plus size store I had walked into.

I was immediately drawn to a display of t-shirts that had peekaboo necklines. The fabric was a gorgeous, silky cotton. I started flipping through the rack, eagerly searching for my size. Startled, I saw tags with “0” and “1.”

Wait, wasn’t this a plus size store?

The store clerk who was hovering nearby sensed my confusion and swooped in to help. She explained this store had “special” sizing. A “0” was equivalent to a 12/14, a “1” was equivalent to a 16/18, and so on.

I thought this sizing was odd and unnecessary, but I didn’t unpack the concept at the time. I was excited to see so many clothes that fit my style. My arms were weighed down by the mountain of clothes I couldn’t wait to try on. In the dressing room, I didn’t care what the tag said. These outfits looked and felt amazing.

The History of Vanity Sizing

Vanity sizing is not a new concept, and it’s not limited to plus sizes. In a bid to make women “feel good” about themselves, the fashion industry has been toying with clothing sizes over the last several decades.

Tag sizes are shrinking, while measurements stay the same. For example, a size 8 dress from the early ’80s would be labeled a size 2 today.

To put it another way, in 1970 a 38 inch bust would have fit into a size 16 blouse. Today, a 38 inch bust would be closer to a size 10.

Plus size retailers, typically regarded as carrying size 14 and up, take the concept even further. These stores are doing their own thing and isolating plus sizes, resetting the clock, so to speak, at a size 0.

What's the Point of This Charade?

Vanity sizing is meant to work subconsciously on shoppers. Some women feel more attractive when they fit into smaller tag sizes. Retailers hope that these women will become repeat customers.

After my introduction to vanity sizing in the plus size fashion, I thought it would be a passing fad. But it looks like it’s here to stay, as I have seen multiple retailers shift their plus sizes to a 0, 1, 2, 3 scheme.

Some plus size women, like myself, don’t care about tag sizes. While we yearn for some type of standardization across brands, we don’t care what that number would be.

Other plus size women are insecure, and vanity sizing cruelly plays into their insecurities. “Plus size attire is not something anyone wants to be associated with, including you. Including us. Here, take this size 3 shirt.”

As a plus size woman who has come to not only accept but love her body, vanity sizing is insulting. My hips are 47 inches whether they fit into a size 2 or a size 22. I don’t need to be pandered to. I just need cute clothes that fit. My self esteem doesn’t hinge on any size tag, and neither should yours.