Swell

I open my eyes

and to my surprise,

under the morning skies

a rising swell did appear.

As I slept last night

waves rolled in my sight

as I waited for the sun to shine bright.

I awoke full of hope and cheer.

It is an addiction this thing.

Waiting for swells like waiting for Spring

longing to ride on the ocean’s wing.

I know a day of surfing is near.

They said the swell is well over head

and part of me now feels dread.

But we’re first out for dawn patrol, so we said,

We are the Pioneer!

Paddling out an ominous sound I hear,

I cannot paddle fast enough to be in the clear

I am dragged under the water to the darkness and drear.

Frantically, I search for the sky.

How much time I will spend below, I just don’t know.

I am searching for the white wash that looks like snow

I’ll know which way to go, when I see it glow.

The air in my lungs is in short supply, but as I swim to the surface, I

gratefully tell the ocean floor goodbye .

A wonderful day of surfing we had,

and for that I’m glad .

While some of my wipeouts were bad

each time, I arose from the sea.

But when it was time, we paddled to shore

our shoulders and arms able to take no more .

Exhausted now, so what’s next in store?

Surely, a nap for me!