Surfing

Nature in tandem, aiding and abetting,

Waves smooth as the bodies that chase them,

Perfect symmetry drawn in ocean combers,

And all there is is this moment.

Diet of fish and fruit rendered my body spacious,

Boneless like a jellyfish,

Flesh swimming in skin sun-kissed,

Mermaid hair blonde, waving,

One with the water, anticipating,

Interpreting the swell,

Hop up on the board and let nature propel

Me down the mouth of a blue roaring barrel.

“Let go, let God,"

Letting nature take over,

She shoots me down a perfect comber.

Traveling at the speed of sound,

The world slows down,

And for a moment in the wave

I’m in a frozen glacial cave.

Shady cover from lusty sun’s tan,

She spits me out like a one-night stand.

What a thrill—I need another

And go back like a wanton lover.

Having tasted euphoria in the green room,

Enlightenment in surf break…

If there is a heaven,

Its got perfect waves.