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Three journeys to Ukraine, 2014 – 2022
Journeys of the body. Journeys of the mind.
(First Journey)
_
Pickled tomatoes and vodka and
Distressingly dill-flavoured chicken in Kiev –
(No, Kyiv, I am told)
In the grey square where
Pictures are posted on the Maidan.
Young people dead too young,
Flinging the defiance of youth
Into the face
Of an old, dead empire ,
Skeletal fingers clutching still
Around old possessions.
_
A new energy in an old city,
Older than Moscow
Grander than Russia.
_
Even the dead can feel envy,
Envy enough to wake the dead.
_
Near Biden’s black-tinted SUV
As other journalists try to get photos of the VP
I interview
A young man in the street, a student at university
In Kyiv.
He's from Crimea and he can
Never go home again.
"If I go back, I will have to be
Russian
And who wants to be Russian?"
_
My mate Carson arrives and
Hungover as hell
We catch the train to Kharkiv.
All the journalists have gone down South,
Down to cover all the
Death in the Donbas
And Kharkiv is silent.
Surely, there must be a story there.
_
On the overnight sleeper,
Rattling Eastwards,
A woman tells me West is the future,
West is the hope of waking up bright
After the long nightmare from the East,
Long, long years of
Invasion and oppression,
Rape and murder and famine.
_
In Kharkiv,
Protests beside Lenin in the square
And bullet holes in the wall
Near where my new friend Alex
Used to work.
Then the Mayor is shot,
Irina (my interpreter) is shocked,
Then springs into action, arranging interviews,
Getting us into the hospital to speak
With the surgeon.
We have the story – the only press at all
To show up, even the BBC
Relies on faulty reports from afar, stringers
Saying he was shot in the back.
_
That evening,
In defiance of the violence in the air,
The young people gather in public gardens,
Laughing
Singing
Sharing a vision for a future far better than
The shooters could ever see.
_
And I get a byline in the Herald.
_
(Second Journey)
_
In Dnipropetrovsk –
(No, Dnipro, I am told) there is
Distressingly dill-flavoured spaghetti
(Fuck me I hate that herb)
And a listing on OLX that catches my
Imagination.
_
A ragged old Dnipr
With rattling old wheels
Roaring old engine
Rusting old sidecar
Sitting in an old farm shed
Of Victoriia’s family,
Since 1974.
_
The boys in the механік
Vova and Vladimir,
Check Gena twice-over and
Check on Facebook to make sure I
Made it to Poltava and Victoriia
Follows my progress
In posts and photos
All across the country.
_
Before I leave Dnipro
A pretty girl
(Somewhere in Slovakia I lost the
Notepad holding her name)
Steals my hat and writes a note for me
In a language I cannot read
To show the police when I get stopped.
‘Hi – my name is Roderick, and I’m travelling across Ukraine.
Don’t worry that I am smiling so much –
I am not crazy
I am only Australian…’ the note begins
And in Lubny and Kyiv
The police smile,
Then laugh, then let me and Gena
Continue on our way
And I remember her shy sly smile
Wearing my hat
As she writes a joke knowing
I will hear the punchline
Hundreds of kilometres away.
_
The moon rises above a nameless
Truckstop on the highway
As Gena rolls to a dead stop.
_
A night above a garage
Oil and grease and old parts and morning light
Rising through slats in the floor
And Roma the Master of Motorbikes
Takes Gena apart
Puts him back together and gets him running again.
We race down the rollercoaster hill
In the long summer grass, the bike
Bouncing over the field to
The swimming hole,
Cool water deep
And life is good in the sun.
_
Finally, at Rivne
Gena roars no more
Spluttering to a final stop.
_
And I eat fried hog fat with salt
And drink vodka with pickles
And sing with old army vets
Who remember Afghanistan and By the River of Babylon.
I leave Gena with them
And I hope they get him
Started again
Eventually.
_
Lviv in summer
Is a place of colours amid the grey.
_
A place of music.
Flowing like blood
Pumping oxygen
Throughout the city,
Played by anonymous virtuosos for a handful of
Change and
A smile from a passing audience.
Clear and pure
The music mingles and flows
Over the cobblestones.
_
Anastasia is a Russian-speaking
Ukrainian living in Lviv
And laughs at the mere suggestion of Nazi-discrimination
Of Russian-speakers.
It does not exist, she says.
_
From Kharkiv and Dnipro
To Rivne and Lviv
_
It simply did not exist.
_
(Third Journey)
_
Years don’t pass,
They blend into a life –
Sweet and sour and bitter,
But my blend is sweeter than most,
I hope.
_
I meet some of my Ukrainians
Out in the world.
In Bali: Sergey and Hanna and
Sunsets on the beach in Kuta.
In Mexico: Andrew and Vika and
Sunsets on the beach in Xcalak.
_
The pandemic grounds me
Two years
In Australia, cut off from my life
Out in the world
Until February and Ukraine is in the news
Again.
_
Journalism and I are long parted,
But I still pay attention and Putin
Is calling for invasion and the world seems to think
It won’t happen and
I wonder if it's time to take
A third journey to Ukraine.
_
I ask my friends –
Andrew and Vika are married now
With a little daughter. Andrew thinks Putin is
Riling up trouble for the sake of it. The
Invasion
Catches them off guard.
_
Anastasia got out early, already
Escaped to Poland.
_
I should go to Ukraine but instead
Choose Pakistan.
I've never been to Pakistan and
Australia is having its first cricket tour there
In 24 years.
_
Invasion begins and
Horrors of Bucha unfold
As Paddy Cummins and Uzzie Khawaja
Lead Australia to victory over Babar Azam and Shaheen Shah Afridi
And I cheer in the stands with Amna
And Ahmad and Timmy in Lahore and
The Pakistani crowd cheers with me and everyone
Wants to shake my hand
Because this is the first tour in 24 years and
Because “cricket connects”
As Usama so pithily puts in Karachi with a wide
Smile and the love of Pakistan enfolds me but
I can’t stop remembering Ukraine.
_
An email from Carson.
He wants to run guns
From Moldova or Slovakia or Poland, getting
Ammunition to fighters running
Out of bullets but
I think it's just drunken ranting and I don’t go
Back.
_
The third journey to Ukraine
Unfolds in my mind as I get back to
My life out in the world and there
Is just a whisper a whisper
My mind whispers
‘Coward
Coward
Go back to Ukraine
You coward’.
_
For 160 days
And more
The third journey unfolds in my mind as
_
Bombs explode in Lviv
And fires burn in Kyiv
And buildings crumble in Kharkiv and everywhere
Good people die.
_
As the grasping dead hand of
Undead empire reaches out in smoke
And fire
And horror
And horror
And horror
In Mariupol
In Kherson
In Bucha.
_
Good people dragged back down into the mud
Churning blood of a
Long-dead creature trying to rise.
_
As a small bald dying old man,
Dying in the smallest possible way, holding nothing
But power
Kills the hope of
A better future, determined to drag us back
Into darker times
His times
The times he never left
In the cold
Old war
Of his mind.
_
Some people, these
Blowhards and grifters and frauds
Say there are two sides to this.
_
Ask the people in Georgia if
Ukraine was wrong to fear Russia,
Mistaken to look Westward? Ask Irena
Or Dato or Nina in an art studio
Near Marjanishvili and
See the blue-sky and golden-field flags
Flying all over Tbilisi.
Ask Estonia
Ask Latvia
Ask Lithuania
Ask Poland
Ask Finland –
Since you clearly don’t believe it when the
Ukrainians tell you themselves.
_
Since the horrors of decades of deportations and
Murders and rapes
And Holodomor
And Chernobyl
Are apparently not enough and now
(Apparently) neither are the horrors of 2022.
_
They are right (in a way)
In their wrongness
When they say there are two sides to this.
_
There is right.
And there is wrong.
_
And that is it.
_
And that is all.
________
This is an edited, much shorter version of a poem I wrote in 2022. The full version can be found in my book Cracks in the Walls.
About the Creator
Roderick Makim
Read one too many adventure stories as a child and decided I'd make that my life.
I grew up on a cattle station in the Australian Outback and decided to spend the rest of my life seeing the rest of the world.
For more: www.roderickmakim.com
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